Mosquito Coast Rock Climbing
Routes in Mosquito Coast
|Ant Line T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Antline Boulder Problem TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B|
|Boot Licker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Fly the Friendly Skies TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hanging Garden T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hangtown T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hermit Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mr. Mustard T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Octopus' Gardens T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Scratchin' for Gold T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sluice Box TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Straight Lines T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Susan Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Twist and Shout T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|White Water Traverse V5 6C|
|bouldering circuit T V2 5+|
|GPS:||38.776, -120.748 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||bob branscomb on Feb 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionRight on the S Fork of the American River, under the Mosquito Bridge. Solid, extremely smooth water polished granite. 30-40 feet high, mostly overhanging, difficult cracks of all sizes. Many newer anchors on the top of the cliff, sometimes a little hairy to get to. A lot of superb bouldering along the base of the cliff: landings are hard so a pad is nearly a must. In summer, best to climb in early am or in evening: days are very hot. Fall, winter, spring: daytime best, after the sun gets down in there to dry off the dew. Winter can be very cold and icy, spring run off can make it impossible to climb: water level has been seen to the top of the cliff.
Note that climbers are not to use the bridge for any anchoring. this can result in a hefty fine.
See Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA for full details.
Getting ThereDriving east on Highway 50, exit on the Broadway off-ramp in Placerville. Go right, then right again back under the freeway overpass. Just before get on the westbound on-ramp, turn left onto Mosquito Road. Follow Mosquito Road to the top of the ridge, where it turns left off Union Ridge Road. This narrow, windy road descends all the way to the bridge. 20 mins - 30 mins from Placerville. Parking is the main problem. It is best to park in the last turnout before reaching the bridge. This is a wide spot with a retaining wall on the outside and a creek on the uphill. Turn around in this wide area and park facing uphill. There is a lot of traffic on this road, it is very narrow, and the locals are very grumpy about being delayed. You would be too if you had to commute up and down this road every day. Walk down to the bridge. You can drop down under the bridge and hop boulders across up river when the water is low. Otherwise, go to the north side and either rappel off anchors along the cliff top or walk around the top of the bridge abutment and follow a poison oak strewn game trail to the east that descends to a gravel bar.
Alternative parking would be to park in the large outside turnoff before the last hairpin left curve that drops to the bridge. A ten minute walk down the road from here to the bridge. The advantage to this is avoidance of the narrowest part of the road to the bridge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mosquito Coast
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season