Elevation: 49 ft
GPS: 18.431, -64.444 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,181 total · 318/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Jan 27, 2009
Admins: Mike Madsen
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Description

"Unreal" beach bouldering according to Ivan Greene's new video. More potential than you could ever imagine. Some lines have remnants of chalk, most others are washed clean by frequent afternoon showers. The rock is actually grippy, except where waves have polished it smooth.
There is a brand new guide published by Fixed Pin Publishing and authored by Rich Crowder and Jonathon Wasser. Be sure to take this along if you go. It will really help get you started, even though some of the beaches have SO MANY boulders that it takes a few minutes to find your way.


Map of Virgin Gorda very easy to get around if you rent a car or use a taxi. Although the taxi service is amazing. Renting a car for at least a day or two is worth it! 


Great Overview of the main bouldering areas. Photo by: Paradise-islands.org

HOW TO GET THERE:

FLIGHT TO THE VIRGIN ISLANDS:
From the states, fly to either St. Thomas or San Juan. From St. Thomas you will want to stay in Red Hook at the opposite end of the island of Charlotte Amelia. Charlotte is known for its night crimes and can be considered, "Unsafe at night. During the day you will find all the good shopping here. Its about 10 minutes from Red hook. Red hook is a very small strip right by the ferry station.

FERRY SYSTEM:
You can jump in the ferry system over to Tortola then to VG. I usually take Native Son Inc. which as of 2015 they charge $40.00 round trip from St. Thomas to Virgin Gorda with a stop in Tortola. Watch the ferry schedule before traveling to St. Thomas the ferry goes on certain hours of certain days. REMEMBER: The British Virgin Gorda charges $20.00 per person to enter back into the US. Or for a bit more, you can fly Air Sunshine straight to VG. A few airlines fly San Juan to Tortola, then 30 minute ferry to VG.

Bouldering is by Spring Bay, The Baths and Devil's Bay on the South side of the island you will see this upon arrival if coming by ferry. The obvious striking island to your right is, " Fallen Jerusalem". This area has lots of development and as previously stated, " Striking." If you can swim or ride a boat try and get to this island as it has some of the best bouldering in the area.
Ferry ticket

WHERE TO STAY

GUAVABERRY SPRING BAY RESORT
This IS the one and only place to stay for bouldering on the island. Beautiful resort that is build right on top of a boulder field. There is bouldering built into some of the sites and very close if not. They offer rooms with A/C and rooms with not. Although the resorts "HUTs" are all vented with slats for all the windows and walls an A/C is a must unless you like sleeping in 80 degree weather with high humidity. Past times I have stayed they already had a crash pad waiting at our hut. I don't recall telling them I was there to boulder I'm guessing every guest gets one. They offer full kitchens with very nice new pots, pans and anything you need to cook full meals. They have a great commissary ( store which uses the HONOR SYSTEM ) it offers enough of a selection of meats, beer, liquor, breakfast items and snacks. Guavaberry Springs lies right on Spring Bay. You will head back towards the rd from the huts. If your coming from across the rd ( Not by check in) you will take a right and walk for about 3 minutes and go down the Spring Bay trail off the road that is well marked and labeled. If you are coming from huts by the check in office you will take a left by the main rd. and walk for about 3 minutes till you see the Spring Bay sign off to the left.

85 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Gorda, BVI

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 22
Spring Bay Crack
Boulder
V1 5
 13
White Crab Arête
Boulder
V1 5
 6
Devils Bay Trail Traverse
Boulder
V1 5
 13
UG Arete
Boulder
V2 5+
 13
Spring Bay Flake
Boulder
V2 5+
 8
Jump the Shark
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Babar's Tusk aka Babars Crack
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Brunswick a.k.a. The Skull
Boulder
V4- 6B
 4
Allez Up Arête
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
Right Jaw
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Peebles
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 6
Babar
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spring Bay Crack Spring Bay > Spring Bay Boulder
 22
V1 5 Boulder
White Crab Arête Spring Bay > High Tide Boulder
 13
V1 5 Boulder
Devils Bay Trail Traverse Baths > Almost To Lithgow
 6
V1 5 Boulder
UG Arete Guavaberry Spri… > UG Boulder
 13
V1 5 Boulder
Spring Bay Flake Spring Bay > Spring Bay Boulder
 13
V2 5+ Boulder
Jump the Shark Spring Bay > High Tide Boulder
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Babar's Tusk aka Babars Crack Baths > Babar Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
Brunswick a.k.a. The Skull Devil's Bay > Skull Rock
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Allez Up Arête Spring Bay > Grill Boulder
 4
V4- 6B Boulder
Right Jaw Devil's Bay > Skull Rock
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Peebles Guavaberry Spri… > UG Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Babar Baths > Babar Boulder
 6
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Virgin Gorda, BVI »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
What I placed up here is just barely a taste of the area's potential. MANY MANY others have done far greater things. These are just the easiest to find projects. I'm guessing people were keeping VG a secret by not posting it earlier. However, with Ivan Greene's video now out, it is no longer a hidden gem.
I went in June of 08 and the temps were 85 highs and 75 lows. It is pretty much in this range all year. I'm going back again this spring. It is THAT GOOD.
There may be other names to these routes. I have no idea. I just thought these up on the fly. Jan 27, 2009
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
I honeymooned here and had a great time exploring the boulders. The limiting factors are heat and sand. I didn't take a pad and had no spotters, but the climbing was still fun. I preferred the boulders of Spring Bay and Devils Bay over the Baths proper... too many gawkers! Hopefully more folks will contribute beta; its a great little bouldering vacation paradise. Jan 28, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
so how about it the fall, like september, still warm and tropical like? May 18, 2009
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Not much of a change in seasons. Winter-Summer - 10-15 degrees maybe. Had a friend who went down in August and found 100 degree days but that is very abnormal. What I would watch out for in planning a late summer/fall trip would be hurricane season. Jul 21, 2009
The first time I climbed here was in the 70's and I was so bummed that I did not have a rope and the cliffs were not taller. My next encounter was in 84 and holy mother I knew what bouldering was and I knew what soft landings were and I was in the birth place of those. So cool to see pictures of an area that was part of my becoming a traveling climber. Remember to leave the places better then they were when you got there.
Love and peace
Chris Aug 18, 2009
Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands will be the center for Caribbean bouldering this June. Come help develop the already established bouldering scene on the island by naming and documenting new boulder problems, locating new areas, and enjoying the beautiful Caribbean weather. The concentration of the dates for this event will be between June 2-June 22.

Contact Jonathon Wasser at wasserj@gwu.edu
or
Rich Crowder at Rich@richcrowder.com

for details. Apr 10, 2011
Rich C  
Guidebook includes tons of travel beta and hundreds of problems:
fixedpin.com/British_Virgin…

vimeo.com/34760326 Apr 13, 2013
Hi! I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know if there's somewhere to rent crash pads down there?
We are staying on a sailboat and guavaberry won't rent to non-guests Nov 25, 2013
MPT
Cambridge, MA
MPT   Cambridge, MA
For anyone looking to rent a couple crash pads, contact Howard at info@villasvirgingorda.com. He has two pads that he will rent out by the day. If you stay in one of the villa's that he manages, he'll let you use them for free.

On that note, a lot of great boulders at VG are on private property in the back yards of houses. If you are taking a trip, it's worth asking about the rock that exists in your villa's back yard. Obviously check with the owners that they are okay with you climbing it. We stayed at Grape Tree Villa through Howard and had a days worth of bouldering in our back yard. Dec 2, 2014
Brandon Bell
Colorado Springs, CO
Brandon Bell   Colorado Springs, CO
Came here for my honeymoon, and this place exceeded my wildest expectations. Beyond the absurd abundance of bouldering problems, there's fun to be had just scrambling between the bays (mostly 4th class,with some sketchy 5.easy unprotected moves).

Guavaberry is the ideal place to stay, unless you can afford to rent a villa closer to the Baths. Crash pads are free, and they have the guide book in the office (I didn't notice it until we were checking out! Arg!), but you can't take it out with you. May 14, 2015
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Truly a magical cache of palm-shaded granite boulders surrounded by warm Caribbean water, but I'm always torn over packing rock shoes to the BVI. There is a lot of highball stuff and a broken ankle would cut a sailing trip short!

Post seaside pebble wrestling, be sure to check out the Mad Dog cafe at the top of the Baths trail for well-priced, tasty food and a laid back bar. Apr 4, 2017
Anyone know the best way to watch the unreal movie by Ivan green about this place I can't find it anywhere Oct 5, 2017
Any beta on how the bouldering and overall conditions are here after this years devastating hurricane season? Dec 23, 2017
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Jack - I was last there a few months before Irma hit but I hear and see from internet updates that the Baths and Spring Bay weren't impacted like other places in the islands were. Many trees were knocked down and a lot of sand shifted but the rock should be good to go. Most of the damage occurred to structures and livelihoods - the Mad Dog Cafe I referenced here last April is reportedly totally flattened. You should go, the BVI can use all the tourist business they can get right now. Many services are already back up and running. Jan 11, 2018
Hi everybody! I'm heading to Virgin Gorda at the end of November. I'm looking for beta about how to get around? I found the ferry schedule so I'm confident we can GET to VG, but once we are there, what is the best way to travel? Taxi? Bike? Or will we need to rent a car? Sep 6, 2018