Elevation: 49 ft
GPS: 18.431, -64.444 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 75,923 total · 534/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Jan 27, 2009
Admins: Mike Madsen

Description

"Unreal" beach bouldering according to Ivan Greene's new video. More potential than you could ever imagine. Some lines have remnants of chalk, most others are washed clean by frequent afternoon showers. The rock is actually grippy, except where waves have polished it smooth.
There is a brand new guide published by Fixed Pin Publishing and authored by Rich Crowder and Jonathon Wasser. Be sure to take this along if you go. It will really help get you started, even though some of the beaches have SO MANY boulders that it takes a few minutes to find your way.


Map of Virgin Gorda very easy to get around if you rent a car or use a taxi. Although the taxi service is amazing. Renting a car for at least a day or two is worth it! 


Great Overview of the main bouldering areas. Photo by: Paradise-islands.org

HOW TO GET THERE:

FLIGHT TO THE VIRGIN ISLANDS:
From the states, fly to either St. Thomas or San Juan. From St. Thomas you will want to stay in Red Hook at the opposite end of the island of Charlotte Amelia. Charlotte is known for its night crimes and can be considered, "Unsafe at night. During the day you will find all the good shopping here. Its about 10 minutes from Red hook. Red hook is a very small strip right by the ferry station.

FERRY SYSTEM:
You can jump in the ferry system over to Tortola then to VG. I usually take Native Son Inc. which as of 2015 they charge $40.00 round trip from St. Thomas to Virgin Gorda with a stop in Tortola. Watch the ferry schedule before traveling to St. Thomas the ferry goes on certain hours of certain days. REMEMBER: The British Virgin Gorda charges $20.00 per person to enter back into the US. Or for a bit more, you can fly Air Sunshine straight to VG. A few airlines fly San Juan to Tortola, then 30 minute ferry to VG.

Bouldering is by Spring Bay, The Baths and Devil's Bay on the South side of the island you will see this upon arrival if coming by ferry. The obvious striking island to your right is, " Fallen Jerusalem". This area has lots of development and as previously stated, " Striking." If you can swim or ride a boat try and get to this island as it has some of the best bouldering in the area.
Ferry ticket

WHERE TO STAY

GUAVABERRY SPRING BAY RESORT
This IS the one and only place to stay for bouldering on the island. Beautiful resort that is build right on top of a boulder field. There is bouldering built into some of the sites and very close if not. They offer rooms with A/C and rooms with not. Although the resorts "HUTs" are all vented with slats for all the windows and walls an A/C is a must unless you like sleeping in 80 degree weather with high humidity. Past times I have stayed they already had a crash pad waiting at our hut. I don't recall telling them I was there to boulder I'm guessing every guest gets one. They offer full kitchens with very nice new pots, pans and anything you need to cook full meals. They have a great commissary ( store which uses the HONOR SYSTEM ) it offers enough of a selection of meats, beer, liquor, breakfast items and snacks. Guavaberry Springs lies right on Spring Bay. You will head back towards the rd from the huts. If your coming from across the rd ( Not by check in) you will take a right and walk for about 3 minutes and go down the Spring Bay trail off the road that is well marked and labeled. If you are coming from huts by the check in office you will take a left by the main rd. and walk for about 3 minutes till you see the Spring Bay sign off to the left.

91 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Gorda, BVI

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 23
Spring Bay Crack
Boulder
V1 5
 14
White Crab Arête
Boulder
V1 5
 7
Devils Bay Trail Traverse
Boulder
V1 5
 13
UG Arete
Boulder
V2 5+
 14
Spring Bay Flake
Boulder
V2 5+
 9
Jump the Shark
Boulder
V3 6A
 9
Babar's Tusk aka Babars Crack
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Brunswick a.k.a. The Skull
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
The Scuttle
Boulder
V4- 6B
 4
Allez Up Arête
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Deep Sea SDS Left
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 3
Right Jaw
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Peebles
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 6
Babar
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spring Bay Crack Spring Bay > Spring Bay Boulder
 23
V1 5 Boulder
White Crab Arête Spring Bay > High Tide Boulder
 14
V1 5 Boulder
Devils Bay Trail Traverse Baths > Almost To Lithgow
 7
V1 5 Boulder
UG Arete Guavaberry Spri… > UG Boulder
 13
V1 5 Boulder
Spring Bay Flake Spring Bay > Spring Bay Boulder
 14
V2 5+ Boulder
Jump the Shark Spring Bay > High Tide Boulder
 9
V2 5+ Boulder
Babar's Tusk aka Babars Crack Baths > Babar Boulder
 9
V3 6A Boulder
Brunswick a.k.a. The Skull Devil's Bay > Skull Rock
 5
V3 6A Boulder
The Scuttle Devil's Bay > Scuttle Area
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Allez Up Arête Spring Bay > Grill Boulder
 4
V4- 6B Boulder
Deep Sea SDS Left Devil's Bay > Devils Arete Area
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Right Jaw Devil's Bay > Skull Rock
 3
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Peebles Guavaberry Spri… > UG Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Babar Baths > Babar Boulder
 6
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
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