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Routes in Arrowhead Cliff

One Little Indian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Page Views: 1,275 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

Description

Though I would stop short of saying this cliff has access issues, it should be noted that this area has parking for one car maximum. You will be parking in a slight recess in the underbrush at the beginning of a neighborhood, and discretion and good conduct are advised.

The cliff itself is found after a sub-one-mile but very bushwacky approach. There is really only one route to speak of, One Little Indian, a 5.10+ pure crack up a dead-vertical face that is not to be missed.
Closed Details

Getting There

Go to Exit 14 off Route 128 (Route 133). If coming northbound, take a left off exit ramp to head NW on Route 133 (Essex Ave). In less than a mile, take a right on Sumner St. which will T into Concord St. Go left on Concord, go over a small bridge and into the beginnings of a neighborhood. At this point, keep your eyes out for a small, single car pulloff into the sticks on the left side of the road. You will NOT be able to see the cliff from where you park. Park as discretely as you can and head across a yellow-grassed meadow.

After the meadow into the woods, you will cross a tiny stream, usually quite dry. Soon you will see the beginnings of a cliffband to your left. Head left along the base of the cliff on a very faint trail mainly maintained by deer. The cliff won't look like much at first. But then you will round a corner in a mossy recess in the cliff. To your right is a sheer vertical face with an obvious crack in it. This is One Little Indian. Climb it!

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Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
Thanks for the update, Jim. Not just for me, but for everyone closer by. I live out near Joshua Tree now, so I haven't been there in a few years. Bumma. Apr 30, 2014
Please Note: Public access has been lost to this area.

The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.

A real shame.

Jim Mar 25, 2014

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