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Areas in Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla

Lower Tier 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Nachopolis 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Upper Tier 16 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Description

The Cuarto Dinamo (or Acoconetla) area is home to some splitter (as well as some not-so-splitter) basalt cragging that would be classic 1-2 pitch stuff in Yosemite Valley.

It's mostly trad climbing, with some bolted routes and some bolted variations. Most anchors and rappels are fat bolted stations, and most things were set up to rap with a single rope. One small note: a number of the splitter cracks here have wide sections, so it's worth lugging the big metal up the hill if you have it lying around.

Getting There

From the park entrance road, continue driving up canyon past many pullouts, stops, etc. Eventually the road turns into a bad dirt road (easily passable with 2WD) and after just 30 seconds on this park in the unpaved lot on your right. There is currently a sign for the Cuarto Dinamo here, and a warning not to go climbing without the necessary gear. Expect to pay 25-30 pesos to park.

From the parking lot, walk up the road for five minutes, past a creek, until the road takes a sharp turn left. Instead of following the road, go right here at the hairpin and find a well beaten approach trail that soon rises rapidly into the thick scrub. Initially, follow the best looking trail at any intersections. After a few minutes, the trail passes next to a large pine whose trunk splits into an obvious three-pronged trunk system above. Just after this landmark is a tricky trail split at a smaller tree. Follow the obvious trail directly up for a denser dustier experience, or continue on the main trail by stepping back down at that smaller tree and contour until it rises steeply to the crags. This trail pops out near the base of Las Gamuzas route. It's a 10-20 minute hike from the car.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cuarto Dinamo/Acoconetla

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Las Hormigas
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Las Hormigas Lower Tier > 5 - Marlon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
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