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The Kachina Spires Rock Climbing
Routes in The Kachina Spires
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Beyond the 80th Meridian T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 R |
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Kachina Tower North T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Kachina Tower South T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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| GPS: |
38.59057, -109.94987 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 9,542 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Dec 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details.
Details
These canyons are important habitat for a variety of wildlife, including raptors such as the Mexican spotted owl, golden eagle and the only herd of native desert bighorn sheep in Utah. In response to a recent increase of recreational activity impacting wildlife habitat, the Moab BLM is implementing a rule to restrict aerial and roped activities in the Hell Roaring and Mineral canyons. The rule includes a permit requirement for all climbing below the canyon rims. The decision was reached after significant study, and environmental assessment including the consideration of public comments.
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Kachina Spires stand proudly over the upper reaches of Hell Roaring Canyon. Though relatively easy to approach, these towers feel remote and offer an unrefined climbing experience. Theyre perched atop a soaring fin that juts into the canyon from its southern edge and are obvious from the parking area.
To get down to the bottom hike clockwise around the first small arm of the canyon, passing a fence and keeping on slickrock as much as possible. There is a way to get down without fixing a rope but it involves crawling along a ledge system. We didnt see these ledges so we fixed a rope for a 30 foot section of cliff and used it to batman down and up.
Once you reach the canyon floor, its worth taking an extra 15 minutes to check out the Barrier Canyon Style pictographs left by the Native Americans of the area. Theyre located in a large alcove across from the spires and slightly down canyon.
This area went untouched by climbers until 1999 when Paul Ross and Paul Gardner bagged the North Tower. The following year Smith Maddrey and Wells Cambell climbed the South Tower from the opposite side of the fin calling their route Beyond the 80th Meridian. Regardless of which route you climb, you are likely to be the only ones in the canyon.
To get down to the bottom hike clockwise around the first small arm of the canyon, passing a fence and keeping on slickrock as much as possible. There is a way to get down without fixing a rope but it involves crawling along a ledge system. We didnt see these ledges so we fixed a rope for a 30 foot section of cliff and used it to batman down and up.
Once you reach the canyon floor, its worth taking an extra 15 minutes to check out the Barrier Canyon Style pictographs left by the Native Americans of the area. Theyre located in a large alcove across from the spires and slightly down canyon.
This area went untouched by climbers until 1999 when Paul Ross and Paul Gardner bagged the North Tower. The following year Smith Maddrey and Wells Cambell climbed the South Tower from the opposite side of the fin calling their route Beyond the 80th Meridian. Regardless of which route you climb, you are likely to be the only ones in the canyon.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Kachina Spires
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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