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Routes in River Rock

Africa Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunken Sporto's S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Case S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Improbable T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just to Watch Him Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Karl's Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Karls Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Bigglesworth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
On Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
School Stinks T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Session T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Total Recall S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
UNR Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 5,169 ft
GPS: 39.456, -120.006 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,259 total · 160/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 5, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Granite crack climbing. Really good place to learn how to lead trad. Easy to top rope a lot of the climbs to. In the colder months, can get really crowded. West facing, so in the sun most of the afternoon.

This is privately owned land. It is located in Sierra County and is owned by Truckee Meadows Water Authority (TMWA), the local water provider for the Reno Area. At one time, you were able to drive all the way to the bridge. In the early nineties, both the gates for the bridge and at the current parking place were locked. Somewhere between now and then, the gate to the bridge has been unlocked.

This wall in the River Rock area is sometimes referred to as "Lower River Rock."

Getting There

Right between Reno and Truckee.
From the intersection of Rob Drive and I-80 Merge onto I-80 and head west 12.7 miles.

Take exit 201 to merge onto Farad Rd 0.2 mi

Turn left to merge onto I-80 E 2.8 mi

There will be a dirt pull out on your right, park here.

On the south end of the pull out there will be a gate to a dirt road. Walk on the dirt road for 10 feet and there will be a walking trail on your left, follow this. You will walk down the hill, past the train tracks, and will see a walking bridge. Go across the bridge and stay on the walking trail to your left. Come to another little bridge, cross, and the rock will be on your right.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at River Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
UNR Crack
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Break
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karls Crack
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Africa Flake
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Bigglesworth
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Total Recall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
UNR Crack
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Spring Break
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Karls Crack
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Africa Flake
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mr. Bigglesworth
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Total Recall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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Tahoe Matt
Tahoe Matt   Truckee
Looking for info on the stuff that is up river about 1/4 mile. Found some anchors climbed some stuff and would like to put some more up. Just don't want to step on any toes out there. Curious what info is out there. Apr 5, 2014
There are eleven routes detailed in the guidebook for the Upstream Crag and sixteen at the downstream crag by the suspension bridge (Locals Guide to: Rock Climbs Of North Tahoe)
You can get a copy at the website, or anywhere guidebooks are sold. As far as I know everything there has been done ground up in traditional style {no protection bolts as of a couple of years ago). Apr 6, 2014
Ian Machen
Carson City, NV
Ian Machen   Carson City, NV
New anchors up on On Safari, Karls Crack, Spring Break, and UNR Crack as of 5/10/2017. Someone put a lot of effort into making a new trail, marking it, building stairs up to the upper area. Thanks, who ever you are! May 16, 2017
Walt Barker
Reno NV
Walt Barker   Reno NV
Yeah, seriously, thanks to whoever put up new hardware, Glue-ins even! Stairs and trail work are awesome too. May 21, 2017
m maup  
Hey! Did anyone find a pair of Katanas and a chalk bag with a retro pin up girl on it on the trail in the last week? I was there I think June 21 and have a feeling that my shoes unclipped and fell off my pack... Let me know if you find anything :)


PS this area is great! Jun 28, 2017
I didn't think to post an update here last Spring (2017). The University of Nevada Rock Climbing Club did our service project here, and we replaced the anchors as stated above. We also trimmed the brush, diverted the water from the trail, and rerouted/marked the trail. At the wall, we added steps for erosion control and easier access. We plan on continuing maintenance at this crag as needed. Nov 21, 2017
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Those were some great improvements, Daniel G. A big thanks to the UNR Climbing Club! BTW if you plan on doing more work, post up beforehand and you could probably get even more people to help. I know I will if possible. Nov 27, 2017
Peter M  
UNR Rock Cllimbing Club: Thanks for the updated trail & replaced anchors!
Also, climbers, let's keep this area clean -- during my last visit (Jan 2018) there was lots of trash (wrappers, orange peels, etc) at the base of UNR crack / Spring Break. Thanks! Jan 16, 2018

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