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Routes in Seven Castles

Bolt The Planet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gate Keeper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Back To Cali S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guardian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Illusionist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impending Poop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kloos Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lolanator T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Storming the Castle T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

This is a good, local crag for a quick winter pump. The crag faces due southwest, high on a hillside and bakes all afternoon. The best time to climb there is winter.

Getting There

Drive 4 miles up Frying Pan Road from Basalt and Park in the large lot on your right just after crossing the Taylor Creek bridge. Walk back across the bridge and up the road that goes towards the cliffs. After several minutes, the road will veer left at a grassy area. Cross the creek and pick up a trail on the opposite side that parallels the road, heading up the valley. Follow this for a ways until you come to a game/ hiking trail on the left. If you come to a power line tower in field you have walked too far. Make a left, angling back north under the nose of the center castle. The crag sits around on the southwest side. Please respect home owners on the approach.

From B. James: "Just to clarify on the description after getting lost on the approach the other day. This crag is on the "center castle" or the the 3rd formation from the left when looking up valley. When following the trail that parallels the road for "a ways" the actual distance is about 1mi from the parking lot so plan accordingly. The crag is directly above a small pond visible from frying pan rd. The approach up from the walking trail is heinous hand over hand small scree slogging, without much of a flat spot to set up a belay."

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C Ross  
Has anyone parked on Taylor Creek Road and hiked in from there? Just before you get to the power lines, you are on National Forest land. I was looking at hiking in as per the description here last fall, but once you get to the first split in the road, there is a open gate with several signs saying private property and private drive. Out of respect, I did not go any further. After looking at the GIS map for Eagle County, I saw that by parking on Taylor Creek Road you could be on National Forest land the entire time, and there is the powerline road (just a trail it looks like on Google Earth) to follow almost the entire way. Here is a link to the GIS map that shows what is private property and what is public lands, gismap.eaglecounty.us/GIS_V…
Jan 19, 2017
B.James
Boulder, CO
B.James   Boulder, CO
Just to clarify on the description after getting lost on the approach the other day: this crag is on the "center castle" or the the 3rd formation from the left when looking up valley. When following the trail that parallels the road for "a ways", the actual distance is about 1 mi from the parking lot, so plan accordingly. The crag is directly above a small pond visible from Frying Pan Rd. The approach up from the walking trail is heinous, hand over hand, small scree slogging without much of a flat spot to set up a belay. Jul 12, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Only one 5.9 here, everything else is harder. Jun 25, 2009
Giulio Del Piccolo
El Jebel, CO
Giulio Del Piccolo   El Jebel, CO
Is there anything in the 5.6-5.9 range in the Seven Castles? Jun 25, 2009

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