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The Twilight Zone

Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

"The place is here, the time is now, and the journey into the shadows that we're about to watch could be our journey."

In the spring and summer, the area stays shady and cool through the morning then bakes in the afternoon sun. In the fall, sunshine is as rare as slabs here. If steep, shady rock is your bag, consider making a journey into The Twilight Zone.

We've done our best to clean up the routes and surrounding rock, but these climbs are still pretty fresh, so care is in order.

Getting There

About thirteen steps beyond the end of the cement retaining wall at the Canal Zone, head uphill by stepping onto a big boulder with a straggly pine tree above it. Scramble up to reach the beaten path uphill to the left. Third class into the red dihedral, exit right, and scramble up onto the trail. The approach is steep, exposed, and a little loose in spots...not for the faint of heart.

Eds. Note that rocks knocked off along this approach can go all the way to the level of the canal trail!

L->R:

A. Desperado, 12+, 1p, bolts, 50'.
B. The Mind And The Matter, 11, 1p, bolts, 90’.
C. Freedom Fries, 11, 1p, bolts, 100’.
D. Shadow Play, 11+, 1p, bolts, 90’.
E. Execution, 11, 1p, bolts, 90’.
F. The Chaser, 11-, 1p, bolts, 80’.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
● Desperado
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 37
● The Mind and the Matter
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
● Freedom Fries
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
● Shadow Play
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 31
● Execution
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 47
● The Chaser
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Desperado
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● The Mind and the Matter
 37
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Freedom Fries
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Shadow Play
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Execution
 31
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Chaser
 47
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trail beta.
[Hide Photo] Trail beta.
L to R: The Mind and The Matter, Freedom Fries, Shadow Play, Execution, The Chaser
[Hide Photo] L to R: The Mind and The Matter, Freedom Fries, Shadow Play, Execution, The Chaser

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darren Mabe
[Hide Comment] Kirk is on fire!!!
Way to go! Dec 1, 2008
Joby Spencer
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Thank you for these excellent routes Kirk. I climbed The Chaser and Freedom Fries on my birthday last week. Both routes definitely added to a great day. The area is well worth the added effort to get up to them. I'm anxious to get back and tick-off the remaining climbs. The bolting is just right, and The Chaser and Freedom Fries were just plain fun routes. They will be on my list of good fun climbs (along with the entire Canal Zone area) to recommend to other climbers. Thanks again. Jan 4, 2009
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Seems like the bottom of the routes is the worst in rock quality but should clean up with time (and luckily is the easiest terrain.) I was surprised to find how solid most of the roofs were and the top of the climbs (although lichen-y in spots) seemed really solid. The climbing here is really FUN. Jul 18, 2009
AOSR
Green Mnt
[Hide Comment] "Eds. Note that rocks knocked off along this approach can go all the way to the level of the Canal Zone belays!"

That is a somewhat misleading statement. While it is possible to send a rock all the way to the trail (so be careful), it is not possible to send one into the belay zone for Canal Zone. Jul 18, 2010
aBove
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] For folks visiting this area....

-MAKE SURE your belayer and climber is wearing a helmet!! Loads of friable rock make ripping grips off a very likely possibility (I personally had a brick size rock rip off a seemingly decent spot).

- BE SUPER CAREFUL of trundling boulders down. While the boulders aren't necessarily going to hit "belayers" at the canal zone, they come extremely close to the trail, if not on the trail, leading west away from the canal zone. And yes, people other than rock climbers use this trail.

-DO NOT bring a dog up there... its loose and 4th class in areas.

However, with a little more cleaning and possible trail maintenance this area has some nice lines worthy of pulling on! Aug 24, 2011
Bobby S
Lafayette Colorado
[Hide Comment] Really fun! Consistent 5.11 climbing throughout. Oct 3, 2013
Adam Keifenheim
[Hide Comment] The furthest left line on the cliff appears to be newer and not listed on mountain project yet. Do not confuse this route with the five listed 5.11s. I didn't know much about the route, but the overall description of the crag above says it is "Desperado, 5.12+." I do not recommend this route. It had 5 bolts in the 45 degree overhang on very slopey holds. The crux comes right away and requires a very attentive belayer to avoid groundfall. There was also an abandoned birds' nest on a chockstone in the overhang. The overhang is more like a boulder problem, and everything above it is covered in lichen and loose. At one point, you have to shove your hand through a bush to get a jug while doing a kneebar. Jul 11, 2015
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
[Hide Comment] Excellent routes! No people! Shade! The approach is no worse than your average Eldo "walk-off". Be careful, be amazed! Loved this area. Oct 22, 2017
Brendan A
Golden
[Hide Comment] Heads up: the access trail (and the new bike trail) from the new parking lot east of Tunnel 1 walks directly under the access trail to Twilight Zone, so be vocal if you dislodge any rocks. Aug 31, 2021
José Flovin
AZ
[Hide Comment] Desperado is an excellent route. Not sure what the gripe is here, it should be on MP. Aug 14, 2022
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Wow, what a hidden gem! The routes are long and feel adventurous. They have extremely fun movement and mostly solid rock. Wear your helmet, and problem solve your way to the top of these, but don't forget to turn on the afterburners once in a while when all of the holds mysteriously turn the wrong direction and become ticking pump clocks. This place is always deserted and deserves more attention. Jul 24, 2025