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Buzzard Point

Tennessee > Laurel Snow State Nat…
Warning Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas DetailsDrop down

Description

Really nice area in Laurel/Snow Falls in Pocket Wilderness. On a huge point dividing the gorge. This Buttress has good sun most of the day.

Rock quality is good. Has been awhile since some of the anchors have been replaced due to the access problems in in the past.

Nice fall/winter sport crag. And some spicy trad. A lot of these routes are done with old school style in mind.

A lot of these routes were started probably in 1977 with the likes of Rob Robinson and Bruce Rodgers. Then around the early 80's some other southern climbers came on the scene like James Dobbs,Ron Davis,Charles Kable, Shannon Stegg, Chris Chesnutt, along with Jeff Gruenberg and his hard line "Pieta" which might have very well been the first 5.14 in the southern realm. Later Tony Robinson and Glenn Ritter put more lines into play.

Some of these routes are on the Point.

Getting There

It is in Dayton Tennessee.Take I-24 to Chattanooga and take HWY 27 North to Dayton and turn left at second red light, which will be north 378 (South Market street) about .4 of a mile and turn left on Delaware Ave (just across from Robinson Manufacturing Co.). After turning left on Delaware Ave follow it for approx. a mile and cross hwy 30 and continue on for 1.3 miles and you will see small white church on right called Bethel Holiness church, entrance on left. Look for Laurel-Snow sign. Follow gravel road to parking lot and you will see the trail head and Kiosk.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Ring Shank
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Crankasaurus
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Rhea County Gun Club
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Bird in Hand
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Va Voom
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Shake, Rattle, and Hum
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
Big Timers!
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Soul Sounds
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Fit Makes The Fashion
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 2
Steal The Air
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Throb
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
The Theater
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Dakota Blues
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Who Shot Bambi?
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 2
Snow White
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 2
Cinderella
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Cuyahoga Falls
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
A.I.D.S. Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Ambition Ammunition
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 1
The Beefeater
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Leapin' Lizards
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Cracksmiths Delight
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Pocket Wilderness
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
The Tall Cool One
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 1
Off To The Wild Blue Yonder
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Pump It To The Sky
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Crack Of Dawn
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Alternate Finish
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
Direct Finish
Trad, Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Alternate Finish/Ruby Falls
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
Jacobs Ladder II
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ring Shank
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Crankasaurus
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rhea County Gun Club
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Bird in Hand
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Va Voom
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shake, Rattle, and Hum
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Big Timers!
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Soul Sounds
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Fit Makes The Fashion
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Steal The Air
 2
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Throb
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Theater
 1
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dakota Blues
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Who Shot Bambi?
 1
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Snow White
 2
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Cinderella
 2
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Cuyahoga Falls
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
A.I.D.S. Crack
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ambition Ammunition
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Beefeater
 1
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Leapin' Lizards
 1
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Cracksmiths Delight
 1
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pocket Wilderness
 1
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Tall Cool One
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Off To The Wild Blue Yonder
 1
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Pump It To The Sky
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Crack Of Dawn
 1
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Alternate Finish
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Direct Finish
 1
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Alternate Finish/Ruby Falls
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Jacobs Ladder II
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Arno Ligner classic "A.I.D.S Crack"
[Hide Photo] Arno Ligner classic "A.I.D.S Crack"
Looking towards Dayton Tenn. from the Point.
[Hide Photo] Looking towards Dayton Tenn. from the Point.
syco.....
[Hide Photo] syco.....
Belay ledge on a project.<br>
Joseph, Matt, Bradley, Ashely<br>
Photo:Brad K. Bradley's dad.
[Hide Photo] Belay ledge on a project. Joseph, Matt, Bradley, Ashely Photo:Brad K. Bradley's dad.
Bradley Killough nearing the top and running laps.
[Hide Photo] Bradley Killough nearing the top and running laps.
Have yourself some of this"Tall Cool One"
[Hide Photo] Have yourself some of this"Tall Cool One"
The way up when exiting from the point, if you don't tyrolean accross the crack from the point.
[Hide Photo] The way up when exiting from the point, if you don't tyrolean accross the crack from the point.
Gnarly arete.
[Hide Photo] Gnarly arete.
Looking down at the top of point from boulder on top.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the top of point from boulder on top.
If you like aretes........
[Hide Photo] If you like aretes........
Me taking the scenic route to the point this crack is 15 ft. accross 90 ft. deep. Tyrolean baby tyrolean...
[Hide Photo] Me taking the scenic route to the point this crack is 15 ft. accross 90 ft. deep. Tyrolean baby tyrolean...
Bradley Killough snagging the dyno section of the route Pocket Wilderness 5.12 c/d. Buzzard Point.
[Hide Photo] Bradley Killough snagging the dyno section of the route Pocket Wilderness 5.12 c/d. Buzzard Point.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] During the summer months, watch out for thunderstorms. They come in fast!! Nov 24, 2008
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] So is the way in from the top legit? I've heard that it isn't...otherwise you're looking at a 2hour approach to the cliff. Oct 10, 2011
[Hide Comment] the way from the top is not legit. Private property surrounds the pocket wilderness - there is no public access. You enter private property at your own risk - and there are a lot of guns in the area. Literally - there is a shooting club. Feb 16, 2012
Elden Zen
originally da Bayou, now in…
[Hide Comment] Wow. 2 hour approach uphill makes 4 hours of hiking round trip. Too bad we can't find some kind of short cut. Could make an awesome workout or just plan on camping overnight if that is allowed up there near the crag. Sep 18, 2012
[Hide Comment] If you can make it to the top, camp. You can tyrolienne across the crack to the point. Great view by the way! Oct 10, 2020