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Routes in Buzzard Point

A.I.D.S. Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alternate Finish S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Alternate Finish/Ruby Falls T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ambition Ammunition S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beefeater, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cinderella S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crack Of Dawn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracksmiths Delight T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cuyahoga Falls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dakota Blues S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fit Makes The Fashion T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jacobs Ladder II S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Leapin Lizards S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Off To The Wild Blue Yonder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pocket Wilderness S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pump It To The Sky S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Snow White S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Steal The Air T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tall Cool One, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Theater, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Throb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Shot Bambi? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Really nice area in Laurel/Snow Falls in Pocket Wilderness. On a huge point dividing the gorge. This Buttress has good sun most of the day.
Rock quality is good. Has been awhile since some of the anchors have been replaced due to the access problems in in the past.
Nice fall/winter sport crag. And some spicy trad. A lot of these routes are done with old school style in mind.
A lot of these routes were started probably in 1977 with the likes of Rob Robinson and Bruce Rodgers. Then around the early 80's some other southern climbers came on the scene like James Dobbs,Ron Davis,Charles Kable, Shannon Stegg, Chris Chesnutt, along with Jeff Gruenberg and his hard line "Pieta" which might of very well been the first 5.14 in the southern realm. Later Rob Robinson and Glenn Ritter put more lines into play.
Some of these routes are on the Point.

Getting There

It is in Dayton Tennessee.Take I-24 to Chattanooga and take HWY 27 North to Dayton and turn left at second red light, which will be north 378 (South Market street) about .4 of a mile and turn left on Delaware Ave (just across from Robinson Manufacturing Co.). After turning left on Delaware Ave follow it for approx. a mile and cross hwy 30 and continue on for 1.3 miles and you will see small white church on right called Bethel Holiness church, entrance on left. Look for Laurel-Snow sign. Follow gravel road to parking lot and you will see the trail head and Kiosk.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buzzard Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A.I.D.S. Crack
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A.I.D.S. Crack
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Buzzard Point »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
During the summer months, watch out for thunderstorms. They come in fast!! Nov 24, 2008
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
So is the way in from the top legit? I've heard that it isn't...otherwise you're looking at a 2hour approach to the cliff. Oct 10, 2011
the way from the top is not legit. Private property surrounds the pocket wilderness - there is no public access. You enter private property at your own risk - and there are a lot of guns in the area. Literally - there is a shooting club. Feb 16, 2012
Swamp Cookie
da Bayou
Swamp Cookie   da Bayou
Wow. 2 hour approach uphill makes 4 hours of hiking round trip. Too bad we can't find some kind of short cut. Could make an awesome workout or just plan on camping overnight if that is allowed up there near the crag. Sep 18, 2012

You can download a FREE Buzzard Point Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link:…

Buzzard Point Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations Oct 13, 2014

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