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Elevation: 5,395 ft 1,644 m
GPS: 39.36941, -119.69506
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,573 total · 289/month
Shared By: ryanmakescoffee on Nov 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen

Description Suggest change

Reno's Biggest Little Sport Crag. Owl Rock hosts a variety of sport climbs from 5.5-5.12 and it is possible to chase shade or sun all day long. The climbing here is fun! Incut and flat edges, pockets, huecos, aretes, and even the occasional crack characterize the routes. All bolted routes are equipped with mussy hooks allowing easy laps and toproping. All routes can be climbed with 10 draws and a 60m rope.

Individual walls are numbered moving from left to right along the base, although the North Wall is the first encountered on the main approach trail. There is bouldering in the area as well. The Owl Boulders sit on the West and South hillsides next to Owl Rock and feature a variety of routes with everything from slab to roof cracks. The Pellets are on a plateau across the road from Owl Rock and have both low traverses and highballs.

This area is year round access and sits on BLM land. Camping is possible anywhere in the canyon. Be aware of other land users nearby, mainly target shooters and ATV riders. Drive slowly near homes on Toll Rd. and watch out for feral horses. Please avoid the road/trails/crag if it is muddy though. This is a high desert environment and the land is fragile. Cutting switchbacks will worsen erosion and just isn't nice. Stay on the obvious existing trails.

While many loose blocks and flakes have been removed, some still exist. Wear a helmet. Climbing has occurred here for decades, from aid practice in the 70's to UNR climbing club topropes in the 90's. The recent cleaning and bolting has re-imagined this small hunk of desert rock into a local gem. While probably not a roadtrip destination, Owl Rock is great for after-work pitches and getting out without the mountain commute.

Getting There Suggest change

From South Reno take 395 South to the intersection with 341 and turn left (East) on 341 toward the base of Geiger Grade, Go right through the immediate round about and 1/2 a mile further turn right at the stop light for Toll RD, Follow Toll RD for a couple miles past all of the suburban neighborhoods until the road turns to broken pavement and dirt, From here you continue on Toll RD for another 1 1/2 miles staying straight past a private property sign (this is a rural neighborhood however Toll RD is a public road to my knowledge, common sense and respect apply), Owl Rock will come into sight ahead and on your right, If you have 4x4 you can drive nearly right to the base...

Approach Trail

Suggest change

There is a trail that begins behind the last target shooting stump. It switchbacks up the WNW hillside. Roughly halfway up there is a right fork that leads towards The Owl Boulders. Otherwise continue up and left towards the main cliffs. Most of the trail is bordered by logs or branches on the ground; if you are stepping over wood then you are off trail. Please stay on the trail and avoid cutting switchbacks or finding your own trail. This is a very sensitive high desert environment and footprints last a long time here.

*Access Issue* - Golden Eagle Nesting

Suggest change

There is an intermittent golden eagle nest site at the East Wall area. It is 2/3 of the way up the route "Drive By Hooting". The Nevada Department Of Wildlife is aware of this nest and is monitoring the site annually. Golden eagles only nest once per year, usually in the late winter or early spring. It is possible that route or area closures may occur if eagles are actively nesting. Golden eagles are a federally protected species and very sensitive to human disturbance. Signage will be placed along the trail by NDOW if there is active eagle nesting. If you see an eagle in the nest and there is no trail signage, please avoid the area and notify NDOW. 

2023 Season Update:

The nest was used this spring but appears abandoned. 2 eggs remain in the nest as of 4/17. NDOW has assessed the site and there are no restrictions on climbing at the East Wall for the rest of 2023. Regardless, please do not disturb the existing nest as it may be used next year.

89 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Owl Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
RIP Owlan Rickman
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Edgar Owllan Poe
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Owljazeera
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Too Hoot To Handle
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
It's Owl In Your Head
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Owlelujah
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
See You Later Owligator
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 14
Jessica Owlba
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Gaining Owltitude
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Fledge Your Bets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Owl Be Thy Name
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Hoot And Holler
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Drive By Hooting
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Owl Be Back
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 9
Totowlitarian Regime
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
RIP Owlan Rickman 7. Celebrity Wall
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Edgar Owllan Poe 7. Celebrity Wall
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Owljazeera 5. W Face
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Too Hoot To Handle 1. E Wall
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
It's Owl In Your Head 4. N Wall
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Owlelujah 5. W Face
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
See You Later Owligator 2. B'Owl Obstruction…
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jessica Owlba 7. Celebrity Wall
 14
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Gaining Owltitude 4. N Wall
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fledge Your Bets 1. E Wall
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Owl Be Thy Name 5. W Face
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hoot And Holler 4. N Wall
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Drive By Hooting 1. E Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Owl Be Back 5. W Face
 10
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Totowlitarian Regime 1. E Wall
 9
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
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