GPS: 44.037, -71.119 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,833 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

This area offers one classic ice route: Way in the Wilderness. It is the obvious two-pitch ice rivulet seen from the Kancamagus Highway. Because of the wall's south-facing aspect, an ascent of Way in the Wilderness is an elusive one, saved for the dead of winter on the coldest possible cloudy day.

References:
"An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England", S. Peter Lewis and Rick Wilcox

For updated ice conditions on the cliff check the EMS climbing store in North Conway:(603) 356 5433. They also rent snow shoes.

Websites with info:
neice.com
neclimbs.com

Getting There

Right off the Kanc. Park below the route, cross the river (sketchy), hike up the steep hill (sketchy and tiring) up to the route. If the ice on the river doesn't support your weight, chances are that the route is not in shape.

(Also, See COMMENT)

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Classic Climbing Routes at Painted Walls Ice Climbs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 9
● Way in the Wilderness
Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Way in the Wilderness
 9
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
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Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
 5
Painted Walls as viewed from the "Kanc" in a less-than-optimal snow/cold year (Jan 15, 2015) Way in the Wilderness is dead center
Painted Walls as viewed from the "Kanc&quo…
 1
Way in the Wilderness - telephoto from the Kanc
Way in the Wilderness - telephoto from the Kanc
 1

1 Comment

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
As stated, this climb gets sun early and bright.

You can also approach via the Albany Covered bridge, which is about a mile East of Lower Falls and about 1 1/2 miles East of the river crossing described in the 2 guidebooks. Park on the Kanc side, cross the river on the bridge, and followed the logging "superhighway" for 1 1/4 miles (keep left at the only major junction) and then follow the (summer) directions for Rainbow Slab, but once you reach the newly logged clearing just after the dry-stream-bed crossing (as far as here it's an easy ski), head uphill directly for the base of Painted Walls. Dec 2, 2016