The Chli Bielenhorn, with its very impressive south face, is a fantastic destination for high quality granite climbing in a gorgeous setting.

The climbing area is at around 2700 meters above sea level, and the routes around 200 meters in length.

There is a moderate itinerary of routes here, and the descent for all of them is by abseil.

Traffic here is, in general, moderate. On weekends during the main climbing season, one is seldom alone.

Accommodation can be found at the nearby Sidelen hut, or at one of the hotels on the Furka pass.

More information and topos for some of the routes can be found in the Schweiz plaisir-ost guidebook.

The Chli Bielenhorn is accessed by means of the trail that leads to the Sidelen hut. From the carpark, high up on the eastern side of the Furka pass, the trail ascends a short, steep hill before levelling off on a beautiful plateau, where people frequently bivy. From there, the trail continues up the side of a hill towards the hut. Along the way, and before a small cliff, a faint trail breaks off and traverses up and right. After some elevation gain, this trail connects with the “Nepali Highway”, a blue-white SAC trail. After following the NH in an easterly direction for a short time, it is a scramble up boulders and scree to the base of the wall.

The approach from the carpark is around one hour, with a fair bit of elevation gain along the way.