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Shared By: Colin Winter on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

The Mittagfluh, a big wall of gneiss on the east side of the valley, is the lowest-altitude venue for multi-pitch climbing at Grimsel at around 1400 meters above sea level.

There are a handful of routes, most of which ascend a giant ramp from start to finish. These routes are 350 meters in length, and are generally of low to moderate difficulty. At times, the bolting can be spaced, and there are minimal opportunities to place gear.

To the left of the ramp, on the steep western face there are a few additional, more difficult routes, including one that ascends the entirety of that face.

It is possible to abseil back down the climbs or to use a separate descent which combines some scrambling and abseiling (the latter being the preferred manner of descent when other climbers are below).

Südkante 5a, mostly 4b-4c
Durststrecke 5b+, mostly 5a-5b
Am Ueli sis Chueli 5b, mostly 5a-5b
Heidi mier weidi mier beidi 5c+, mostly 5a-5b

Getting There

The giant wall with its characteristic south-facing ramp is hard to miss from the road heading up towards the Grimsel pass from Innertkirchen. From the carpark (on the left side of the road, between Guttannen and Hotel Handeck), a single trail takes off in the direction of the wall.

The approach from here takes around 30 minutes.

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