Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 39.244, -113.405 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,463 total · 257/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 31, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

This used to be the old highway to get to Nevada and California in the early to mid 20th century. There was even a hermit who lived in the lower reaches of the canyon in a shack that he built into the rock. The shack is still there today. His job was to make sure the road was clear of debris so cars could pass. He often would let passers by stay the night. If you go out there think of how it would be to live there year round.

The road can be nasty as it's basically a riverbed from storms at a few places, your BMW or Prius wouldn't be the best choice of transportation IMO.

This canyon has cooler temps than Ibex and many different climbing options. Most of the traffic going through are people looking for a nice drive, a rancher, or the occasional ATV'er. Crowds aren't a problem here.

The rock is Limestone and tends to be sharp so extra finger tips are advised.

Getting There

From Delta go south on Hwy 6. You will see the signs pointing the way to Marjum. Follow these. When you get out into the desert keep an eye on the power lines, follow the road that follows the power lines and you shouldn't have much of a problem finding it. The signs are non-existent at a few intersections.

You can also get there from Ibex. Go to the Painter Springs road and cruise that for about 20+ minutes. You will pass the awe inspiring
Notch peak looms above the granite slabs . You will see the road turn up (east) into a canyon, this is Marjum. The first pullout/side road you come to on the left is the Hermit shack side canyon.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Marjum Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
The Boys from Provo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Good Husband Sticker
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Nobody's Darlings
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Eye of the Needle
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Hoodwinked
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Bushwhacked
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Bad Bolt
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
The Marjumhorn
Sport 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Don't Step on the Napkin
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Boys from Provo Hermit Canyon > Campsite East
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Good Husband Sticker Hermit Canyon > Campsite East
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nobody's Darlings Hermit Canyon > Second Tier
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Eye of the Needle Eye of the Needle Wall
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Hoodwinked Hermit Canyon > Hermit Shack Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bushwhacked Hermit Canyon > Hermit Shack Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bad Bolt Hermit Canyon > Campsite East
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Marjumhorn Tower Ridge
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Don't Step on the Napkin Hermit Canyon > Campsite East
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Marjum Canyon »

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