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Castle Rock - North Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Castle Rock - North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bella Lugosi T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Belle-E-Up T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Junction Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
	Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

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Elevation:	3,800 ft	1,158 m
GPS:	34.0017, -116.0203 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	30,391 total · 152/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Oct 28, 2008
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Shady for most of the day and both steeper and smoother in texture than the southern side, this side of Castle Rock has the bulk of the better routes in the area with rating ranging from 5.0 to 5.11+ although most are in the 5.10 and under range. A nice variety of both cracks and faces are available here with plenty to choose from in the moderate grades.

Getting There

Approach through the campground to the obvious northern side of Castle Rock.

17 Total Climbs

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Location:	Castle Rock - North Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock - North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 221 ● Diagnostics Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 90 ● Music Box Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 46 ● That Old Soft Shoe Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X 14 ● Transylvania Twist Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Belly Dancer Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 30 ● Count Dracula Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 14 ● Bella Lugosi Trad