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Elevation: 4,600 ft
GPS: 68.17674, 16.54936
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Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008 · Updates
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Description

Sitting far above the Arctic Circle, Stetinden basks in the midnight sun during the summer, and hulks in twilight during the winter.
There are many routes on the mountain, but most people summit via the Regular Route, a traverse of the SE ridge. The South Pillar Route is perhaps the most pleasant ascent route, ascending 13+ pitches of immaculate granite.
Keep in mind that the wind and weather varies rapidly. Tents pitched insecurely at the pull-off have been lost to fjord when sudden wind-gusts sent them flying. Although I had perfect weather for my ascent, rain is common; in fact it rained a few hours after I returned to camp.

Getting There

From the south, take the E-6 to the turn-off for the town of Drag and take the ferry to Kjopsvik. Drive out of town - there is only one road - and head north. Go through three tunnels and stop at the parking area a short distance from the fourth; a rock monument lies beside the road and a sign announces "Stetinden."

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stetinden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
● Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Stetinden »

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Wind plume coming off Stetinden the day before my ascent. Note the foreground peak is NOT the summit - look carefully at the top of the cloud, and the summit is just visible there.<br> During my ascent, the wind was relatively calm, but on the descent the wind became so strong that I could not walk across the ridge peak for fear of being blown off. Strong gusts would come from one direction for a few seconds, followed by an equally strong blow from the opposite side of the ridge.
Wind plume coming off Stetinden the day before…
 16
Stetinden, seen from the approach trail. The Regular Route ascends the ridge on the right side of the photo; the South Pillar is profiled against the sky on the right side of the central summit spire, sweeping down near the center of the mountain's base.
Stetinden, seen from the approach trail. The Re…
 2
majestic Stetind
majestic Stetind
 1
Looking over Elveran to Kjopsvik from the summit of Stetinden.<br> This entire region is chockfull of excellent mountain destinations. Many of the nearby peaks are of the same fine granite as Stetinden, though a few, like Prestinden, appear much less stable.<br> Obviously, the northern faces receive much less sunlight, so snowfields remain year-round. Several glaciers lie nearby, also.
Looking over Elveran to Kjopsvik from the summi…
 1
Andy at the top of our new route, Slab of the Flies, and pointing to our next objective.
Andy at the top of our new route, Slab of the F…
 0
an impressive piece of granite.
an impressive piece of granite.
 0
Early season. The hike back from Stetinden around 11pm.
Early season. The hike back from Stetinden aro…
 0
SE Ridge. The typical descent of Stetind.
SE Ridge. The typical descent of Stetind.
 0
TrailHead kiosk to Stetind. No bolting.
TrailHead kiosk to Stetind. No bolting.
 0
Another view from beside the summit cairn, looking WNW across several fjords and mountain ridges running to the horizon.
Another view from beside the summit cairn, look…
 0
The South Pillar Route of Stetinden. Most parties opt to access the route via the ramp system about a third of the way up in this photo, leaving 13 pitches of excellent granite. Another dozen or so pitches of hard climbing lie below this traverse.<br> This is the prize route: had I a partner, we would have attempted this one.
The South Pillar Route of Stetinden. Most parti…
 0
View from the scree slope just below Hall's Fortopp ridge.<br> I met the guided groups coming up as I descended this loose section of switchbacks.<br> Out of view to the right of the lake in the photo's lower left is the "gear-up" rock, a small knob where climbers prep for technical terrain and scope out the approach to specific routes.
View from the scree slope just below Hall's For…
 0

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