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Routes in Stetinden

Sydpillaren (South Pillar) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 4,600 ft
GPS: 68.177, 16.549 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,060 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008
Admins: Michael Sullivan
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Description

Sitting far above the Arctic Circle, Stetinden basks in the midnight sun during the summer, and hulks in twilight during the winter.
There are many routes on the mountain, but most people summit via the Regular Route, a traverse of the SE ridge. The South Pillar Route is perhaps the most pleasant ascent route, ascending 13+ pitches of immaculate granite.
Keep in mind that the wind and weather varies rapidly. Tents pitched insecurely at the pull-off have been lost to fjord when sudden wind-gusts sent them flying. Although I had perfect weather for my ascent, rain is common; in fact it rained a few hours after I returned to camp.

Getting There

From the south, take the E-6 to the turn-off for the town of Drag and take the ferry to Kjopsvik. Drive out of town - there is only one road - and head north. Go through three tunnels and stop at the parking area a short distance from the fourth; a rock monument lies beside the road and a sign announces "Stetinden."

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stetinden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sydpillaren (South Pillar) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
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