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Routes in Bonistock / Melchsee-Frutt

Blitz 5c+ S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chneiwschibä 5a S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cyrill 5a S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Donner 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eiger Live 7a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heiliggeischt 6b S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hermelin 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kurväwasser S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leiterli / Titlis 7b S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Melkaeli 6c S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rägäbogä 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sennächäppi 7a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Späckrösti 5c S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zuägadä 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 6,538 ft
GPS: 46.775, 8.279 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,619 total, 68/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Oct 18, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

A short approach, southern exposure, a stunning landscape and an abundance of easy to moderate routes... it is no mystery why this is one of the more popular crags in central Switzerland.

Melchsee-Frutt, where the crag is located, is a wonderfully humble village / ski resort situated high above the Melchtal valley.

In the village, there are numerous hotels with restaurants, as well as a small convenience store with all the indispensable items for a day on the rocks (i.e., beer, sausage, cheese, and of course butter, for those with a true appreciation for the crown jewel of Swiss dairy products).

The crag is a single band of rock that extends for several kilometers. The rock is a high-quality limestone, with distinct horizontal "layers." As a result, the routes are not always sustained, but particularly in the steeper sections where the upper layers protrude outwards, it can make for some extraordinary and airy climbing.

The routes are well-protected, primarily single pitch affairs. Most of the routes are between 3-6b (french). There are only a handful of harder routes. At the base of each route, there is a sign with the name, grade and length. It doesn't get much more user-friendly than this.

Tip: On sunny winter days, you can climb here in a t-shirt and take in the views of the ski resort. As icing on the cake, you can ski or sled back down to your car in the evening!

Info, topo and local weather conditions at: melchsee-frutt.com.

Getting There

Melchtal is a relatively quiet valley very close to Lucerne, and is accessible by public transport (bus) or car.

In the summer, the Melchsee-Frutt resort is accessible from the valley by car, via a windy, single-lane road that takes off from the valley floor at the end of the proper two-lane street. In both the summer and winter, the area can also be accessed by gondola.

Note that the one-way road is open for uphill traffic on even hours, and downhill traffic on odd hours. In the summer, particularly on weekends, you may have to pay a toll to drive up.

From the resort, you walk along a paved road to the east for about 5 minutes. From there, a clearly marked trail takes off to access the crag. The first routes are just a few minutes away, the furthest 20-25 minutes.

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The actual crags are down a long and windy road on the north side of the Melchsee lake. As you head down the road you will pass through a small town (if you can even call it that) that is set up mostly for people before they head up to the lake. You will need to get a ticket from an automated machine. The road leading up to the lake is a one way, with alternating traffic. On even hours, traffic is allowed up tot he lake and on odd hours traffic is allowed down from the lake. If you come late, or close to the next hour, it may be a good idea to wait it out as if you take too long getting up traffic coming the other way may start and this road has a lot of unfortunately sharp turns.

Once you make it to the lake you should park at the parking lot you see on your way in. You can technically drive all the way to the approach, but this isn't technically allowed. Just park and walk along the lake until you pass a gigantic ladder decorated as a candle. Past this you should be able to see the crags. Look for an approach trail just off to your left. All the routes are marked with a placard that has the name and the grade. The routes all look like they haven't seen much traffic, as there is little to no chalk on them, and a lot of them involved a good amount of hold finding.

When you're done and ready to come back down be sure to stop by a pay machine, which should be located at the parking lot. You will need to validate your ticket before you can leave. If you forget, there is another pay machine located near the gates at the bottom. When I came I stayed for about 16 hours (came at night, left the next afternoon) which cost 16 CHF. Not sure if the price is per hour or a flat rate, but it isn't all that bad. Jun 21, 2017
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Now in 2016, there are automated toll gates regulating the flow of traffic up (but not down). On the way down, there's a digital sign/stop light telling you when you can go down. I think you have to insert your toll ticket into some sort of pay machine at the top. because when we got done and ready to leave, we couldn't get the gate open again at the bottom. We didn't know you had to pay/get the ticket validated. But it's October and the ski resort was basically empty/closed.

The crag itself is huge and has about 150 climbs—all marked with metal placards. But based on the routes available here on MP, we didn't realize just how big this place is.

To get to the crag, park your car and then walk along the north side of the lake on the paved road. Go along the lake until you pass the giant, standalone elevator. Just past this point, you'll see some large signs with climbing info on it and the path that leads up to the base of the crag on the left. Don't do what we did and hike up toward the top of Bonistock. We asked someone where Bonistock was and they sent us on a wild goose chase lol. Wasted about 45 minutes before we realized our error. The approach is literally 5-10 minutes from the parking area. Just head toward the lake.

The crag is broken down into 7 zones. Each zone has 10-15 routes.

It's such a beautiful place to climb. Definitely worth the trip if you're in the area. And worth it as a destination in and of itself if you want to also do some 600-foot multi-pitch nearby as well (Chelesen).


TOPO:
Here's a link to a breakdown of the entire crag: melchsee-frutt.com/files/sw… Oct 31, 2016
Toll (in 2011, gets adjusted every year or two) is CHF 12, but this is only collected during the tourist season - if nobody is standing at the base or the top to collect, you've got nothing to worry about. Dec 7, 2011
Dan Flynn   MA  
Toll is 7 chf to drive up and park at Melchsee-Frutt, but we couldn't find out how to pay it... camping is possible at several sites on the drive up.

Sure, don't come to Switzerland for the single-pitch climbing, but it sure is fun if you're already here!

Note the grades on the route name placards are UIAA/German, which takes some mental gymnastics... Jul 17, 2011
Braxtron
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Braxtron   ...
There is a toll for the road from Stöckalp, and it's 12 Franken. IMO, if you're going to Swizzyland for single pitch climbing, you're nuts! Aug 21, 2009

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