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Routes in Quartzite Wasteland

Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down South T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flip Ya Lid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Interstate Love Song T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loss of Innocence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something From Nothing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twig and Berries T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The name, Quartzite Wasteland, is a playful jab at the the Wasteland of Rifle. While not a destination area like Rifle, locals and visiting climbers will find an enjoyable half-day of quality climbs, including a couple must-do climbs on quality quartzite. No need to fear, this is no wasteland, as the hard quartzite provides for fun climbing on compact rock in a style that is unique for the Western Slope.

The Quartzite Wasteland is a newly (spring ’08) developed area. Wear a helmet as all of the routes are new and bring a double rack of cams, a few stoppers, runners, and quickdraws for some quality mixed climbing on Glenwood Canyon’s quartzite.

This area receives morning and mid-day sun and nice shade by early afternoon.

Routes, listed Left to Right:
Left Project - anchor visible
Interstate Love Song, 5.11+, 2 bolts and gear
Twig and Berries, 5.7, 1 bolt and gear
Charcoal Burger Daydream, 5.10d, 8 bolts and gear
El Lagarto Borracho, 5.10d PG-13, 6 bolts and gear
Down South, 5.11a R, gear
Flip Ya Lid, 5.8, 3 bolts
Something From Nothing, 5.10a, 3 bolts and one cam
Loss of Innocence, 5.10d, 5 bolts

Getting There

Park at the Hanging Lake rest area (exit # 125). Hike east on the bike path, passing the Hanging Lake Trail. A few minutes past the trail is a rockwall/revegetation project within yards of the trail. Just past that is a couple of large boulders in the grass on the left side of the trail. Hike past these boulders and scramble up rock underneath a tree. Above the scrambling, hike on a faint trail that contours the slope underneath a collection of granite crags. This trail heads into the scrub oak before traversing to a large scree slope. Hike up the scree slope on the larger, more stable rocks. Near the top of the scree slope find a faint trail that makes a couple of switchbacks before meeting the quartzite cliff. Hike left ten yards to the first of the climbs, Loss of Innoncence. Total hiking time from the car is 15 to 20 minutes.

9 Total Climbs

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Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Don't be afraid, BE VERY AFRAID!!! I would imagine this is as close as you can get to acting like Kor, while still clipping bolts. Beautiful setting on a pile of death.... Jul 29, 2009

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