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(C) Three Fingered Jack

Oregon > Oregon Volcanoes
Warning Access Issue: Remember to get a Wilderness permit at the trailhead DetailsDrop down

Description

Three Fingered Jack, named for its distinctive shape, is a Pleistocene volcano in the Cascade Range of Oregon. It is a deeply glaciated shield volcano and consists mainly of basaltic andesite lava.It was first climbed in 1923 by six boys from Bend, Oregon, or members of The Mazamas. Generally the rock quality is poor, although it is better closer to the summit. Jack isn't a very technical mountain, by the easiest route, but it offers stunning views of most of the cascade volcanoes to both the north and south. Usually once you break the treeline it is pretty windy, and most ascents are done from June through October.

Getting There

From Hwy 20 from either Bend/Sisters or from Salem the turn off and approach to Jack is from the Pacific Crest Trail access parking lot that is located just off the hwy just east of Hoodoo ski area but before Santiam Pass signage. Don't forget to bring your Northwest Forest Pass to park in the lot.

Routes from Left to Right

5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
 66
● South Ridge Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● South Ridge Route
 66
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

If Halloween was a mountain...
[Hide Photo] If Halloween was a mountain...
summit view
[Hide Photo] summit view
On the approach
[Hide Photo] On the approach
The technical pitch to the summit.
[Hide Photo] The technical pitch to the summit.
A crooked view
[Hide Photo] A crooked view
1st winter ascent. January 5, 1971.
[Hide Photo] 1st winter ascent. January 5, 1971.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bennett Barthelemy
Ojai, CA
[Hide Comment] The chimney guarding the summit felt like 5.6 R to me and was super loose the first 30 feet, but I was wearing mountain boots... sweet line, ton of snow from about 4500 up the south ridge. Jul 8, 2011
Josh Janes

[Hide Comment] I've uploaded a GPX track for the route (see the Climbing Area Map for this page). It includes the entire route and the description and comments include some tips for success.

The climbing sections involve a short "catwalk" which is exposed 4th class, a short (10' high), non-exposed cliff band with several options that is probably 5.0, and finally a scoop or chimney of sorts which is non-exposed and probably 5.2, but 40' tall and therefore serious, immediately followed by a short but very exposed 4th class slab and ridge to the true summit.

I climbed up and down these in my trail runners, but it would have been much better to have 80' of rope to rap or batman down the scoop/chimney. If you're roping up for the climbing, I would recommend an 80' length of rope and slings for pro (knobs, horns, and chockstones abound). Terrain belays and slinging features is totally adequate and I believe any other removable pro to be unnecessary. Jul 13, 2023