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Routes in Three Fingered Jack

South Ridge Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Elevation: 7,844 ft
GPS: 44.48, -121.844 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,925 total, 89/month
Shared By: Stephen Davis on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Three Fingered Jack, named for its distinctive shape, is a Pleistocene volcano in the Cascade Range of Oregon. It is a deeply glaciated shield volcano and consists mainly of basaltic andesite lava.It was first climbed in 1923 by six boys from Bend, Oregon, or members of The Mazamas. Generally the rock quality is poor, although it is better closer to the summit. Jack isn't a very technical mountain, by the easiest route, but it offers stunning views of most of the cascade volcanoes to both the north and south. Usually once you break the treeline it is pretty windy, and most ascents are done from June through October.
Remember to get a Wilderness permit at the trailhead Details

Getting There

From Hwy 20 from either Bend/Sisters or from Salem the turn off and approach to Jack is from the Pacific Crest Trail access parking lot that is located just off the hwy just east of Hoodoo ski area but before Santiam Pass signage. Don't forget to bring your Northwest Forest Pass to park in the lot.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Three Fingered Jack

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
South Ridge Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge Route 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
The chimney guarding the summit felt like 5.6 R to me and was super loose the first 30 feet, but I was wearing mountain boots... sweet line, ton of snow from about 4500 up the south ridge. Jul 8, 2011

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