Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Prairie Squid Wall

Calamari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prairie Squid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoked Squid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squid Vicious T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squids in Blue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

This wall lies southeast of Moonshine Dome and can easily be seen from the 4WD road on the west side of the Pinnacles. It is the west-facing wall of the formation best known for The Incinerator (5.12a) on the north end.

It is a short wall with several fun, easy routes and many possibilities for variation. For most of the routes, the most challenging climbing is at the start, followed by easier ground. It is also a good place to learn gear placement as the routes are generally face climbs with great stances and cracks for pro.

In the center of the wall there is a small roof at the top; under the roof are two bolts, ostensibly for TR, but there are no chains or rings attached to the hangers and the routes that reach this anchor are best done by climbing the roof and setting up a gear anchor, not only because a gear anchor is necessary to safely clean the TR but because the roof move is pretty fun! There is a lesser roof to the right that is a bit easier and more stable yet still quite fun.

Getting There

Prairie Squid Wall can be accessed either by heading up and east from the 4WD road and scrambling past several rows of boulders, or by hiking north from the trail for Pistol Whipped Wall. It is also possible to scramble south from the north parking lot, past the east side of Wilbur’s Tombstone.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Prairie Squid Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
My climbing partner and I thought these climbs felt fairly easy for their ratings, but it was a fun wall to enjoy at the end of the day. Jul 10, 2013

More About Prairie Squid Wall

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Prairie Squid Wall (7)

Most Popular · Newest