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Routes in (91) Breakfast Cracks

Birds of Paradise T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackberry Jam T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Espresso T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Rabbit T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

Farthest north of the normally climbed walls. A few bolted anchors, but mostly stout trees and some gear backup. Watch out for teenagers and drinkers!

Getting There

The very first trail you get to as you drive up past the church.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (91) Breakfast Cracks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Isaac
Portland
Isaac   Portland
Climbed a couple times here recently. As Kyle stated earlier, it does appear the bolts on BoP have been cut, but the tree behind works fine as an anchor. Great little section of the butte, 100 foot approach, seems quieter than other areas (could be just me), plus of course it's within city limits. This place has potential! The cave works reasonably well to come up out of after you're done for the day (would recommend rapping down to begin). Filled two trash bags with everything from rusty cans to shredded underwear and hypodermic needles.. will be going back again next week with more bags. If everybody packed a bag out each time this place would be shit free in no time. Spread the love. Jul 6, 2017
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
There's a big Metolius rap hangar at the top of Birds of Paradise and some evidence of a previous anchor nearby. Chad's instructions are pretty good, but if you want to top rope these climbs, you don't need trad gear, static rope, or slings. Just tie your climbing rope around a tree, and set up your anchor on an overhand bight down by the cliff edge. Lower your buddy and belay from above. A 35m gym rope works fine. Jun 21, 2017
Kyle Jones
Portland, OR
Kyle Jones   Portland, OR
I may have missed them, but I believe the bolts on Birds of Paradise have already been pulled out. I saw a couple holes that seemed recent. Bolts on Espresso were still there (and greatly appreciated.) Jun 5, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
My friend Erik and I have been cleaning up and re-equipping the four best routes here. So far Espresso and Birds of Paradise have new stainless steel anchor bolts, and eventually Blackberry Jam and White Rabbit will as well. Hopefully these won't be chopped.

As of March, three of these routes were still dripping but BoP was mostly dry. Access is a bit easier than previously believed as you can climb down through a small cave between the Breakfast Cracks and the Toothpick Wall.

For top-roping, the anchors are best accessed by fixing a line from a nearby tree and rappelling to them, setting up an anchor, then rappelling to the ground. The bolts do not yet have hardware for lowering so you will have to retrieve the anchor from above. Mar 19, 2017
Tim Welch
Portland, OR
Tim Welch   Portland, OR
I vaguely remember hearing a couple years ago one of the homeowners was removing anchors on that side Sep 1, 2016
das1405
Portland
das1405   Portland
does anyone know WHY all the anchor bolts are cut off? seems odd? Apr 7, 2016
Here's the set up for top-roping several of the Breakfast Cracks classics.

Blackberry Jam
With a 50 foot (give or take) static rope, tie an end around the large fir tree that's 40 feet back from the top of the climb. Pull the rope to the edge of the climb. During this process you'll be attached to the rope with a Grigri. Tie a loop in the end of the rope and attach a locking carabiner to it. Put the center of your climbing rope through the locking carabiner and toss it over the cliff. Back-up is either a hex or a hand sized cam. You might need to adjust the length on either the hex or the static line to get them equal. Ideally, you'll want most of the climber's weight to be on the hex/cam.

White Rabbit
With a 100 foot (give or take) static rope, tie the center of the rope around the reasonably large fir tree that's 30 feet back from the top of the climb. The fir tree is back in the woods a bit. Pull the two tails of the static line to the edge of the cliff. During this process you'll be attached to one of the tails with a Grigri. Tie a loop into each of the tails and attach a locking carabiner to each loop. Put the center of your climbing rope through the carabiners and toss it over the cliff. Set the static rope over the smooth, rounded edge at the top of White Rabbit. You'll want your carabiners to be just below the lip.

Birds of Paradise
2 or 3 foot sling on the old Metolius Rap hanger at the top. Back-up with a bomber nut roughly 5 feet behind the hanger. Another backup option is further back in the alcove, roughly a #2 C3. Either use a short length of rope or some super long slings to connect it all. Birds of Paradise is a common and easy way to rappel into Breakfast Cracks.

It's a bit daunting figuring all this out for the first time. With practice it takes less than 25 minutes to set up all of the TR's on Blackberry Jam, Espresso, White Rabbit and Birds of Paradise. Great for after work sessions.


Chad Aug 9, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Four great climbs in this little self-contained venue. Unfortunately only one of them has any top anchor, making accessibility an issue.

Blackberry Jam can be lead and then belayed from the top, either on the precarious top-out ledge, or at a fir tree 30 feet back.

Espresso can be rapped and top-roped from the chain around the tree. The tree doesn't look great, and the chain setup isn't exactly UIAA standard, but it's all you have in this area.

White Rabbit tops out in a section without any trees or cracks nearby. No idea how you would belay up a second climber.

Bird of Paradise ditto above.

I scouted this area pretty thoroughly. There are plenty of bolt threads, but the hangers have been removed. No trees safely accessible for rappelling. If you don't want to climb out, you can go down to the perimeter trail below and take the scenic route out. Aug 8, 2014

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