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Elevation: 1,200 ft
GPS: 35.9983, -94.427
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 158,123 total · 837/month
Shared By: CJ Gates on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

This little crag sits about 30-40 minutes west of Fayetteville. It is dark and dirty but there are some great climbs here. Total roped climbs number around 40 or so. The climbing ranges from easy 5.4 to hard 5.13 with (I think) at least one route needing a FFA that is supposedly hard 5.13. There is also some bouldering to be found and some that is still to be or in process of being developed.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several ways to get there. I will give one from Fayetteville: Take Hwy 16 west out of Fayetteville. Drive past Lake Weddington another 5-10 miles. In a very sharp right hand bend on Hwy 16 you will take a left on N. Jackson Hwy or Hwy 669 heading south. Follow this road until you come up to Lake Lincoln on your left. Turn left down a little dirt road and park in the parking area that is on your right. You can also cross the creek and park there as well. You can also see the map coordinates attached here. This road (Hwy 669) will take you all the way in to the town of Lincoln if you go too far.

224 Total Climbs

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Location: Lake Lincoln Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Lincoln

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 12
America
Boulder
V3 6A
 16
PJ
Boulder
V5 6C PG13
 4
Shoehorn
Boulder
V6- 7A
 6
Chronicles of Gnarnia sit
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Triple Technique
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Triple Token
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Differential Equations
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
Lincoln it Up
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
Arachnophobia
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 35
Smeaglin It Up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 35
The Wasp
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Box Canyon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Ivory Coast
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Steeple Chase
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
America N Side > Main Wall
 12
V0 4 Boulder
PJ Dam Boulders
 16
V3 6A Boulder
Shoehorn Mad Max Bouldering
 4
V5 6C PG13 Boulder
Chronicles of Gnarnia sit Cove
 6
V6- 7A Boulder
Triple Technique N Side > Main Wall
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Triple Token N Side > Main Wall
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Differential Equations N Side > Main Wall
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff N Side > Main Wall
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lincoln it Up N Side > Main Wall
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Arachnophobia N Side > Main Wall
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Smeaglin It Up N Side > Main Wall
 35
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
The Wasp N Side > Main Wall
 35
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Box Canyon N Side > Box Canyon
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ivory Coast Ivory Coast Wall
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Steeple Chase Ivory Coast Wall
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
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