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Areas in Lake Lincoln

Across the Dam 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cove, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Dam Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Green Peninsula at Lincoln Lake 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Ivory Coast Wall 0 / 7 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Johnny the Boy Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mad Max Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
North Side 9 / 32 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Road Warrior Area 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
South Side 1 / 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
South(East)Side Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

This little crag sits about 30-40 minutes west of Fayetteville. It is dark and dirty but there are some great climbs here. Total roped climbs number around 40 or so. The climbing ranges from easy 5.4 to hard 5.13 with (I think) at least one route needing a FFA that is supposedly hard 5.13. There is also some bouldering to be found and some that is still to be or in process of being developed.

Getting There

There are several ways to get there. I will give one from Fayetteville: Take Hwy 16 west out of Fayetteville. Drive past Lake Weddington another 5-10 miles. In a very sharp right hand bend on Hwy 16 you will take a left on N. Jackson Hwy or Hwy 669 heading south. Follow this road until you come up to Lake Lincoln on your left. Turn left down a little dirt road and park in the parking area that is on your right. You can also cross the creek and park there as well. You can also see the map coordinates attached here. This road (Hwy 669) will take you all the way in to the town of Lincoln if you go too far.

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Lincoln

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Triple Token
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Bum Diggity
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Differential Equations
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Boothe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Johnny the Boy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
The quest for the sticky stuff
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Arachnophobia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
1865
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Ivory Coast
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Steeple Chase
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Mad Max
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Triple Token N Side > Copperhead Wall
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bum Diggity Johnny the Boy Wall
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Differential Equations N Side > Copperhead Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Boothe Johnny the Boy Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Johnny the Boy Johnny the Boy Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff N Side > Dead Man's Wall
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The quest for the sticky stuff N Side > 13 Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Arachnophobia N Side > 13 Wall
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
1865 Ivory Coast Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Ivory Coast Ivory Coast Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Steeple Chase Ivory Coast Wall
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Mad Max Mad Max Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

Nate Flynn
United States
Nate Flynn   United States
I remember one year the lake swelled with spring run-off and the only access as to rap from the top of the cliffs and climb back out, the trail was completely covered in water 3 feet deep! My friend Josh Eldridge took his girlfriend in his canoe and I suggested he climb from the boat, but he had other things in mind... Aug 8, 2013
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
Does anyone know where the hard 5.13 project is here? May 24, 2015
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee
Evergreen, CO
JonnyGreenlee Greenlee   Evergreen, CO
I don't think its a project anymore, but I am assuming they are talking about this route as the hard 13.

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… Jul 18, 2015
Gary Patrick
Cordova, TN
Gary Patrick   Cordova, TN
I was there recently climbing and got on three different routes, which, upon arriving at the top found the anchors to be missing. One had only two bolts sticking out, one had one bolt missing the anchor, and one had nuts and bolts but no hanger. Try and check to be sure anchors are there. There seem to be plenty of trees for anchors. Mar 28, 2016
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
This place is a total gem. Humbling, and much, much more beta intensive than the more textured sandstone at HCR or the Throne. Keep your feet under you! May 2, 2018

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