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Folks have been climbing at Baldwin since 1993. It is a beautiful dolomite cliff, about 15 miles outside of Lander. It's well described in Lander Sport Climbs by Steve Bechtel. Baldwin Creek boasts the best rock in Lander and a high concentration of hard clip ups. There are about 60 routes ranging from 5.10d to 5.14c.
The cliff faces due south and you can't get there in the winter as the road is closed for elk habitat management. It can be brutally hot here, even on cool days in the fall. There's no shade, the approach road requires a 4 wheel drive vehicle, and it's a bit of a hike to get to the cliff. Pray for clouds and wind if you venture out here.
Leave Lander on the Baldwin Creek/Squaw Creek loop. Take a dirt road at the far end of the loop and start switchbacking up towards Shoshoni Lake. The road gets really bad at the top of the switchbacks. You park at a small pull off near a hidden kiosk.
Approach beta: From the hidden kiosk, follow a faint trail through the forest to a stair case over a fence right before a meadow. Once you reach the meadow, trend straight/right towards the big downed tree (look for cairns). Follow the very faint trail eventually skirting trees to your left. From here you will eventually reach the top of the hillside marked with a large rock stack. Follow the trail down and right across the hillside to some trees where the trail switches back and trends back left leading down to the top of the cliff band. Follow the steep trail down and left to the climbing.
New downed trees are common every year and the trail can be very difficult to find with a fresh coat of snow.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● White Lightning |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
● Troubleshooter |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Mask Without a Face |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Pizza Hut Girl |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Beelzebubba |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Mephisto |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Western Family |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Little Pedro's Mexican Tida… |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● The Brave Cowboy |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Tres Amigos |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Viva Hate |
|
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport | ||
● The Power of One |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Grafitti Man |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Supple Cowboy |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Cowboy This |
|
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport | ||
● Access Denied |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Two Guys Named Festus |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Amused to Death |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● The Bravery of Being Out of… |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Piston Hurricane |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Rapid Fire |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
● Losing Streak |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Voodoo Chile |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
● Gimmie Shelter |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Withering Heights |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
● Dinosaur Rock |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
● Rain of Gold |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport | ||
● Orange for Anguish |
|
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b Sport |
Tucson, AZ
Thanks! Oct 27, 2011
Eugene, OR
Chosstown, USA
Lander, WY