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Baldwin Creek

Wyoming > Lander Area

Description

Folks have been climbing at Baldwin since 1993. It is a beautiful dolomite cliff, about 15 miles outside of Lander. It's well described in Lander Sport Climbs by Steve Bechtel. Baldwin Creek boasts the best rock in Lander and a high concentration of hard clip ups. There are about 60 routes ranging from 5.10d to 5.14c.

The cliff faces due south and you can't get there in the winter as the road is closed for elk habitat management.  It can be brutally hot here, even on cool days in the fall.  There's no shade, the approach road requires a 4 wheel drive vehicle, and it's a bit of a hike to get to the cliff.  Pray for clouds and wind if you venture out here.

Getting There

Leave Lander on the Baldwin Creek/Squaw Creek loop. Take a dirt road at the far end of the loop and start switchbacking up towards Shoshoni Lake. The road gets really bad at the top of the switchbacks. You park at a small pull off near a hidden kiosk.

Approach beta: From the hidden kiosk, follow a faint trail through the forest to a stair case over a fence right before a meadow. Once you reach the meadow, trend straight/right towards the big downed tree (look for cairns). Follow the very faint trail eventually skirting trees to your left. From here you will eventually reach the top of the hillside marked with a large rock stack. Follow the trail down and right across the hillside to some trees where the trail switches back and trends back left leading down to the top of the cliff band. Follow the steep trail down and left to the climbing.

New downed trees are common every year and the trail can be very difficult to find with a fresh coat of snow.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
White Lightning
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Troubleshooter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Mask Without a Face
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Pizza Hut Girl
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 1
Beelzebubba
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Mephisto
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Western Family
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Little Pedro's Mexican Tidal Wave
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Brave Cowboy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Tres Amigos
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 1
Viva Hate
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
The Power of One
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Grafitti Man
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
Supple Cowboy
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 1
Cowboy This
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Access Denied
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Two Guys Named Festus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Amused to Death
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
The Bravery of Being Out of Range
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Piston Hurricane
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Rapid Fire
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Losing Streak
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Voodoo Chile
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Gimmie Shelter
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Withering Heights
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Dinosaur Rock
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 0
Rain of Gold
Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
 0
Orange for Anguish
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Lightning
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Troubleshooter
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mask Without a Face
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pizza Hut Girl
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Beelzebubba
 1
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mephisto
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Western Family
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Little Pedro's Mexican Tida…
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Brave Cowboy
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tres Amigos
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Viva Hate
 1
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
The Power of One
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Grafitti Man
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Supple Cowboy
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Cowboy This
 1
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Access Denied
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Two Guys Named Festus
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Amused to Death
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Bravery of Being Out of…
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Piston Hurricane
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rapid Fire
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Losing Streak
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Voodoo Chile
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gimmie Shelter
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Withering Heights
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dinosaur Rock
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rain of Gold
 0
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Orange for Anguish
 0
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Best rock in Lander.
[Hide Photo] Best rock in Lander.
Marquis Sector
[Hide Photo] Marquis Sector
Baldwin Creek Cliff, looking east, aroundabouts Two Guys Named Festus
[Hide Photo] Baldwin Creek Cliff, looking east, aroundabouts Two Guys Named Festus

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Saw a video about climbing a route called Wind Drinker at Suicide Point and was just curious if there was any information on this cool looking prow.

Thanks! Oct 27, 2011
JD Merritt
Eugene, OR
Crimp Nasty
Chosstown, USA
[Hide Comment] Is it possible to make it up here in a subaru? Jul 7, 2013
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] It is not possible to make it in a subaru. Bring plenty of water and pray for shade. Baldwin has the highest quality limestone in Lander and the climbing here is spectacular. Sep 15, 2018