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Routes in The Rim of the World

Access Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christina's Roof S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Clutch S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fall Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Linda's Lament S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucky Boy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miguel's Warmup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Not Tobie S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rosie Wants Me Home S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Static Cling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Elevation: 8,800 ft
GPS: 35.702, -105.686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,312 total · 19/month
Shared By: Steven VanSickle on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski
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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This south-west facing crag is the best of pecos. Its has the best view of the high peaks, and you will probably never see another climber there. It hosts the longest routes in pecos and of the best quality in pecos.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

To get there, when facing cathedral rock look right and count 2 telephone poles down. at the base of the telephone pole hike straight up the ridge for about 40 minutes. DO NOT hike up the gully to the right of cathedral rock. When you reach the base of the cliff you are on the far right side of the cliff. the routes extend a long ways to the north.

10 Total Climbs

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This is a great little cliff although the approach is steep. Most of the routes are not immediately adjacent to each other. Climbs, left to right, include:

Static Cling: 5.11b/c (bolts), quality--watch the lower with a 60m rope for SC and FG, you cannot reach the belay bolt but easy ledges above.

Fall Guy: 5.9 (bolts), quality

Lucky Boy: 5.10b/c (bolts), quality--a bit to the right of Fall Guy

Not Tobie: 5.12a (bolts), start just left of the cave.
Tobie: 5.12b (bolts), direct start to Tobie.

Project: 5.11?, anchor left of CR.

Christina's Roof: 5.11b/c (bolts)

These are the first climbs one comes to after the approach. One must traverse left and downhill to reach the other routes.

Double Clutch: 5.11c (bolts), quality

Rosie Wants Me Home; 5.10b (bolts)

Linda's Lament: 5.10c (bolts), trend right to finish climb (same anchor as Rosie).

Miguel's Warmup: 5.10a/b (mixed), gear in the crack start

Access Card: 5.9+ (mixed), this is the rightmost route and can be used to TR the above three routes. Apr 17, 2012
Kevin Bond
Santa Fe, NM
Kevin Bond   Santa Fe, NM
Amazing spot, just a few notes that would be helpful.
It took me/partner (both out of shape smokers) 20 mins not 40 to approach on a steep but decent trail by the second t-pole.
The wall is in the shade until about 2/3 oclock, this was in March.
It felt like a few other climbs that are not listed on MP, so route finding was a little tough
All and all amazing location, with lots of super quality climbs, and fantastic views Mar 6, 2018

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