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North Face of Pitchoff

New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley & Cha…

Description

Some of the best moderate ice climbing in the Adirondack Park can be found in this fairly remote area. There are more climbs than there are parking spaces. The northern exposure and higher elevation ensures that NFOP comes in early and stays climbable late in the season. It can be cold and windy, especially early in the season. The climbs are mostly single pitch NEI 4 or long multi pitch NEI 3 to 3+.

Getting There

NFOP can be reached from the Jackrabbit ski trail. Take the 'Old Mountain Road" off Rt 73 just north of Mt Van Ho on the right heading towards Lake Placid. This is a dirt road and 4WD is advisable, especially late in the season when the road turns into a mudfest in the afternoon. There is room to park about 6 or 7 cars at the end of the road. Parties arriving with multiple vehicles should try and park at the base of Old Mountain Road and carpool the rest of the way to keep as many spots open as possible. The Jackrabbit Trail begins at the parking area. You MUST wear skis or snowshoes on the Jackrabbit Trail when it is skiable (8 inches of snow or more). The Rangers have been known to stake out the parking lot at the end of the day and ticket climbers who "bareboot" the Jackrabbit Trail. The climbs are visible from the trail, the approach is 30-45 minutes depending where you climb.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of middle section of NFOP showing Weeping Winds and Screw 'n Climaxe
[Hide Photo] View of middle section of NFOP showing Weeping Winds and Screw 'n Climaxe

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shane Kenyon
Peru, NY
[Hide Comment] Please BRING SNOWSOES, the post holing makes the trail treacherous for skiers! Feb 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] What about the fun route left and down from Hanging Spoons? Name? Jan 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] Are you thinking of Emerald City? How far left are you thinking? Jan 30, 2018
[Hide Comment] That might be it, if "Emerald City" is down and left of Hanging Spoons, brownish ice leading to a cedar jungle?

If so, can it be added to the MP guide for NFOP? I thought it was worthy.

Thanks Jim Nov 30, 2018