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New New Place

New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock

Description

New New Place is another one of White Rock's vertical basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall) and are quite good. Most climbs are characterized by short crux sections between good rest stances or ledges. The New New Place has more 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some other White Rock cliffs. Some good more challenging climbs are found here as well. People have been climbing here since the early 1970s.

The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children.

Getting There

Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations (Rover). Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south side of the cliff is easiest).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 1
Rough Wall Right
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 8
Crap On
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Unnamed
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
Beginner's
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Avalauncher
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Flare
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Sharon's Sandbag
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Sharon's Lead
Trad, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 10
Half Moons (aka Clockwork)
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 1
Fever Pitch
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Rumsey's Lead
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Batshit Crack
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 4
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts)
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 2
Thumb Action
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Phone Booth
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Have a Nice Day Yucca
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Hard Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rough Wall Right
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Crap On
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Unnamed
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Beginner's
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Avalauncher
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Flare
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Sharon's Sandbag
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Sharon's Lead
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Half Moons (aka Clockwork)
 10
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR
Fever Pitch
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
Rumsey's Lead
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Batshit Crack
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts)
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
Thumb Action
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, TR
Phone Booth
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Have a Nice Day Yucca
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Twin Cracks
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Hard Crack
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side of the New New. My notes say the numbers (along the bottom) should go:<br>
7,8,9,10/11,12,13,14,15,16,17
[Hide Photo] Right side of the New New. My notes say the numbers (along the bottom) should go: 7,8,9,10/11,12,13,14,15,16,17
view from Crap On @marycatmathis
[Hide Photo] view from Crap On @marycatmathis
Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" is the 3rd from right, or 4th from left.<br>
<br>
Someone with photoshop should number this. My notes say the number is (L to R) 1,2,3,4,5,6
[Hide Photo] Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" is the 3rd from right, or 4th from left. Someone with photoshop should number this. My notes say the number is (L to R) 1,2,3,4,5,6

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] The "tire art" has been removed from the canyon, so that's no longer a useful landmark. To find the top of the crag, walk east (diagonally left) from the cul-de-sac on a good trail for about 100 yards, then turn right onto another good trail for about 50 yards. You will find anchor bolts at the top of the cliffband on your left. Graffiti is visible on the boulders scattered at the base of the crag. Go a few yards further south to find a third-class scramble descent to talus that leads you to the base. May 31, 2017
[Hide Comment] This is my favorite place to climb currently near Santa Fe. Mike's description on how to find it is pretty helpful. You can take the way down on the left side of the craag (if you're facing the river) and it's much easier than trying to get through the larger boulders on the right side. When you get to the bottom of this on your right side will be the wall, and the left side of you facing the Rio Grande, nearest to hard crack and twin cracks. Aug 11, 2020