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Routes in Mt. Huntington

Harvard Route, The WI3 M6 C1
West Face Couloir T WI4+ M4 PG13
Elevation: 12,240 ft
GPS: 62.968, -150.896 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 13,130 total, 115/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 1, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

Mt. Huntington was named after Archer Milton Huntington, former President of the American Geographical Society, sponsor of an early expedition up the Northwest branch of the Ruth Glacier. Unlike McKinley, Foraker, and Hunter, the mountain is not visible from "the plains" (i.e. Talkeetna) and for this reason apparently has no native name (like Denali, Sultana, and Begguya). From the upper Ruth or Tokasitna Glaciers, it appears as an impressive fang of snow or granite.

One defining feature of Mt. Huntington is there is no easy route to or from the summit. In fact, this peak sports arguably the lowest summit percentage of any peak in the Alaska range. Many an expert ice climber has raced with ease up the lower portions of the Nettle-Quirk, only to be humbled by loose, unconsolidated snow on the upper portion of the peak.

Mt. Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by a team led by the legendary French alpinist Lionel Terray, and received its first winter ascent in 2007 by Jed Brown and Colin Haley. I estimate that fewer than 100 people have stood on the summit of Mt. Huntington. When Kelly Cordes and Scott DeCapio completed the first one-day ascent of the mountain in 1998, Cordes commented, "I now understand why so many people stop at, ahem, 'the end of the difficulties.' "

The rock on the west face of Mt. Huntington is generally excellent granite. The north face is primarily steep snow and is quite dangerous (it has only been climbed once). The south and east sides of the peak have mixed snow, ice and rock routes, generally longer than routes on the west face.

Mt. Huntington has graced the covers of many climbing magazines. The mountain was profiled in Alpinist #20 (Summer 2007).

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Getting There

Fly to the Ruth or Tokasitna Glaciers. Most of the routes are better reached from the Tokasitna (upper or lower).

Further Reading

"The Mountain of My Fear" by David Roberts is the classic tale of the first ascent of the Harvard Route. Available from the publisher Mountaineers Books or from Amazon.com.

Lionel Terry's account of the first ascent is in the 1965 American Alpine Journal, you can download this for free. Search for "Huntington Lionel Terray" on the AAJ search page

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Classic Climbing Routes at Huntington

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+ M4 PG13
West Face Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 20 pitches
WI3 M6 C1
The Harvard Route
Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 30 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face Couloir WI4+ M4 PG13 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 20 pitches
The Harvard Route WI3 M6 C1 Aid, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 30 pitches
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hanson Smith
Boulder, CO
Hanson Smith   Boulder, CO
CDC
CDC  
David Roberts 1965 Harvard route ascent"The Mountain of my Fear" should be included in the History of this peak! Feb 6, 2014

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