Coal Creek Boulders Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,858 ft | 2,395 m |
GPS: |
39.19199, -107.27728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 57,427 total · 288/month | |
Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Jul 28, 2008 | |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Nearby perigrine falcon nesting - anticipated closure
Details
From Phillip Nyland, NFS, In the past I have reached out to many of you in regards to a peregrine falcon nest site at Lime Canyon (Eagle County, Colorado) on Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, White River NF.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
It looks like there is another pair nesting at a different location where people like to climb; Coal Creek near Redstone, Pitkin County, Colorado located about a mile east of the Coal Creek Boulders area. Through monitoring, we have enough information to believe the site is being used for nesting. Because of this, we anticipate initiating a temporary closure of the immediate cliffs and steep terrain surrounding the nest site, which would run until August 1 or earlier if nesting ends earlier. The vicinity and forthcoming restricted area are on attached maps.
Some information that might be helpful to climbers: we are asking folks to avoid the cliffs and steep terrain at this time, in advance of a temporary area closure forthcoming in the immediate future. The area temporarily restricted is about one mile east of the climbing routes known as Coal Creek Boulders, and does not include Coal Creek Boulders. The area is approximately 2,000 feet of cliffs and steep rocky terrain north of Coal Basin Road (FSR 307) at and beyond the winter road closure gate, ending at the unnamed tributary west of the gate approximately 1.3 to 1.6 miles from CO Highway 133. Please avoid being on the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, and access routes in the indicated area. The top of the cliffs are included because we have seen peregrines perching on these. Closure information should be posted by the weekend on the road at the boundary of the restricted area. The closure will end when rescinded or August 1, whichever is earlier.
On the same token, we will be monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons in the near future and I will reach out with a 2023 status.
Description
The Coal Creek boulders offer fun climbing in a beautiful setting with an easy approach and a good range of grades. The boulders appear to be a Dakota sandstone (or something similar) in contrast to the cobblestone-featured sandstone of the Redstone boulders. The landings have taken some work but are generally safe. While this area is mostly inaccessible during the winter months, the boulders sit on a south-facing slope so the snow melts quickly in the spring and the rock is dry soon after a rainstorm. Also, the area sits at about 8,500' so the area can offer welcome relief to the summer heat and the tight confines of the valley walls can offer welcome shade in the afternoon on the hottest days.
Getting There
Drive to the old mining town of Redstone. Just south of the south entrance to Redstone is Coal Basin Road, heading west from CO Highway 133. Look for old brick coke ovens and an old, large piece of mining machinery just before the road when driving from Carbondale. Drive up this road for several miles, first passing some tall red cliffs before coming to a large parking area/trailhead on your right after a cattle guard. Park just past the cattle guard and hike back down the road (east) to the large talus slope where the boulders lie.
10 or 20 yards from the cattle guard a faint trail, occasionally marked with cairns, heads up to the most popular boulders. It is also possible to head up the hill immediately after crossing the cattle guard, staying close to the fence, until a faint trail contours east along the slope to The Wall.
10 or 20 yards from the cattle guard a faint trail, occasionally marked with cairns, heads up to the most popular boulders. It is also possible to head up the hill immediately after crossing the cattle guard, staying close to the fence, until a faint trail contours east along the slope to The Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Coal Creek Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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