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Routes in John Bryan State Park

Black Left TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Black Right TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Blue TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue Right TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bubble Butt V2 5+
Green TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Right TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hug Me Once Shame on You, Hug Me Twice Shame on Me V1 5
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ V3+ 6A+ PG13
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 V6 7A PG13
Mavericks Boulder, Ripping waves V2-3 5+ PG13
Midas V0-1 4+
Orange Left TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Over the River and Through the Woods V2 5+
Palm Reading V2 5+
Pink TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Left TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Middle TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pride Rock Boulder, Swamp Ass V5 6C
Red TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Middle TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
other proj, The V2-3 5+
proj, The V4-5 6B+
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Elevation: 1,013 ft
GPS: 39.791, -83.855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,071 total · 199/month
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Courtney Curtner
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Description

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.

Getting There

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at John Bryan State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Bring plenty of extension. Many of the bolts are a good 2-3 feet away from the edge. Though the official map notes the locations of the sites, it feels like there are more locations than designated. The colored locations themselves are actually several lines. Nearly all sites can be accessed from above, just keep along that path and hop down where it looks possible. Mar 27, 2018
Cole T
Cincinnati, OH
Cole T   Cincinnati, OH
So whats the deal with bouldering here, still illegal? Couldn't find anything on the ODNR's website on the topic. Sep 26, 2018
Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
Courtney Curtner   Dayton, OH  
@Cole T, great question and one I will look into further. Will report back when I find out the information! Sep 26, 2018

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