|GPS:||39.79, -83.857 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008 · Updates|
Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site (black) are maintained in the park. 25-35 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed (no bouldering or lead climbing) at designated sites along the North Rim Trail. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites, and signs have been installed for each area. From west (parking lot #1) to east (parking lot #3) the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Routes get a lot of sun in the winter (due to lack of leaves) and are mostly shaded other times of the year.
NOTE ABOUT GEAR:
All of the routes at John Bryan State Park include large eye bolts that are placed about 3-10 feet from the cliff edge. In order to set it up on top rope, it is highly suggested that you use webbing or a static line and locking carabiners to create your anchors. DO NOT USE TREES OR VEGETATION FOR ANCHORS! Also, DO NOT directly feed rope through eye bolts (this is not only bad for the rope, but also creates unnecessary wear on the bolts). If you are unsure about how to safely setup your top rope, check out online resources like the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) or find private instruction at a local climbing gym.
Parking Lot #1 (the first parking area you'll see on the right that has a playground next to it) is the closest to the Red climbing area.
Parking Lot #2 (Wingo Picnic Area Parking Lot): This is the most central parking lot and the most convenient for accessing most of the climbing areas. From this parking lot, if you turn left on the main trail, you will see the green area first, and if you turn right, you will access the blue area first.
Parking Lot #3 (the third parking lot option): This parking lot is the furthest east and is closest to the yellow area.
Classic Climbing Routes at John Bryan State Park
Days w Precip