Elevation: 1,021 ft
GPS: 39.79, -83.857 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,871 total · 215/month
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Description

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site (black) are maintained in the park. 25-35 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed (no bouldering or lead climbing) at designated sites along the North Rim Trail. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west (parking lot #1) to east (parking lot #3) the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Routes get a lot of sun in the winter (due to lack of leaves) and are mostly shaded other times of the year.

NOTE ABOUT GEAR:
All of the routes at John Bryan State Park include large eye bolts that are placed about 3-10 feet from the cliff edge. In order to set it up on top rope, it is highly suggested that you use webbing or a static line and locking carabiners to create your anchors. DO NOT USE TREES OR VEGETATION FOR ANCHORS! Also, DO NOT directly feed rope through eye bolts (this is not only bad for the rope, but also creates unnecessary wear on the bolts). If you are unsure about how to safely setup your top rope, check out online resources like the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) or find private instruction at a local climbing gym. 

Getting There

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off US-68. From I-70, you can follow signs to John Bryan State Park. 

Parking

After entering the park and passing the rangers office/ camping area on the right, you'll take the road down and then turn left before going down the hill. After turning, you'll see three main parking options that lead to the north rim trail (where all the top roping areas are located).

Parking Lot #1 (the first parking area you'll see on the right that has a playground next to it) is the closest to the Red climbing area.

Parking Lot #2 (Wingo Picnic Area Parking Lot): This is the most central parking lot and the most convenient for accessing most of the climbing areas. From this parking lot, if you turn left on the main trail, you will see the green area first, and if you turn right, you will access the blue area first.

Parking Lot #3 (the third parking lot option): This parking lot is the furthest east and is closest to the yellow area.

Camping

John Bryan State Park has 52 non-electric, 9 electric, and 2 group pay campsites at the park. These sites are located about a mile from parking lot #1. Camping can be reserved online here: John Bryan State Park- Reserve America. Camping is open year round. 

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Classic Climbing Routes at John Bryan State Park

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Bring plenty of extension. Many of the bolts are a good 2-3 feet away from the edge. Though the official map notes the locations of the sites, it feels like there are more locations than designated. The colored locations themselves are actually several lines. Nearly all sites can be accessed from above, just keep along that path and hop down where it looks possible. Mar 27, 2018
Cole T
Cincinnati, OH
Cole T   Cincinnati, OH
So whats the deal with bouldering here, still illegal? Couldn't find anything on the ODNR's website on the topic. Sep 26, 2018
Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
Courtney Curtner   Dayton, OH  
@Cole T, great question and one I will look into further. Will report back when I find out the information! Sep 26, 2018