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Routes in John Bryan State Park

Black Left TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Black Right TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Blue TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue Right TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bubble Butt V2 5+
Green TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Right TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hug Me Once Shame on You, Hug Me Twice Shame on Me V2 5+
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ V3+ 6A+ PG13
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 V6 7A PG13
Mavericks Boulder, Ripping waves V2-3 5+ PG13
Midas V0-1 4+
Orange Left TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Palm Reading V2 5+
Pink TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Left TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Middle TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pride Rock Boulder, Swamp Ass V6 7A
Red TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Middle TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
other proj, The V4-5 6B+
proj, The V4-5 6B+
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,013 ft
GPS: 39.791, -83.855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,699 total · 169/month
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Description

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.

Getting There

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.

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Classic Climbing Routes at John Bryan State Park

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