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Elevation: 1,318 ft 402 m
GPS: 35.7045, -94.107
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,765 total · 146/month
Shared By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

This area offers around 40+ routes, mostly sport but does have some good trad or mixed routes. You can climb year round here because it is shaded but it gets very muggy in the summer time. You rarely see anyone here although there are some very good routes here. Most of the rock is of good quality too.

Getting There Suggest change

This area lies nearest to the town of Mountainburg on old highway 71. From Mountainburg head north on 71 until you reach a road on your right. (it is about 4 miles north of the Dam View pullout that overlooks the dam that is also on the right). This road leads to Lake Fort Smith State and is called Shepherd Springs road. Follow the windy road for 2 miles, and then past the park entrance. It turns to dirt after about 2/3 of a mile past the park entrance. Drive on for about a .25-.5 mile and look for a small cairn of rocks on the left with a small pullout on the right side of the road. This is the trail to the bluff, about a 2 minute walk. In the winter you can see the bluffline.

56 Total Climbs

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Location: Shepherd Springs Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shepherd Springs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Rage
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
The Fisherman
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Hooks for Feet
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
A Blocky Ambition
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Needs a Nut
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Shepherd's Arete
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 8
The American
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
The Return of Angst
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Biscuits & Jam
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Bottom Feeder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Friday the 13th
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
GOJO
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Stump Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rage Main Bluffline
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Fisherman Main Bluffline
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hooks for Feet Main Bluffline
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A Blocky Ambition Main Bluffline
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Needs a Nut Main Bluffline
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shepherd's Arete Main Bluffline
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The American Main Bluffline
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
The Return of Angst Main Bluffline
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Biscuits & Jam Main Bluffline
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bottom Feeder Main Bluffline
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Friday the 13th Main Bluffline
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
GOJO Main Bluffline
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Stump Route Main Bluffline
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shepherd Springs »

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