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Areas in Hatun Machay

Boulder Field 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Erotica 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
House of the Rising Sun 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
La Cueva 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
La Fisura 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
La Muralla 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
La Placa Verde 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
La Tapia 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Las Pequenas 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Los EspaƱoles (O) 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Panza Roja 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Picaflores 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Rasta Quechua 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tirol del Sur 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 13,866 ft
GPS: -10.089, -77.349 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,339 total, 143/month
Shared By: Matt 2or3 on Jul 16, 2008 with updates
Admins: Tony Yeary
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Description

Weathered, featured granite towers and slabs in an idyllic high alpine meadow. Contains ancient carvings and quality bouldering as well. Small access fee, guides available in Huarez as well as topos at many tourist restaurants.
Here's a link to topo's peru providing additional route information.

toposperu.com/2015/12/21/ha…

Here's a link to updated information on the current situation concerning the removal of bolts: both for protection and anchors:

m.facebook.com/permalink.ph…

Getting There

75km south of Huarez, up a small dirt road to a hut.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hatun Machay

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Chris Oleson
Santiago, Chile
Chris Oleson   Santiago, Chile
I climbed here in Sept/Oct 2017 and there is still great climbing to be had despite the conflict between the former operator of the refugio and local population. Many routes have been chopped (bolt hangers removed) and have not yet been rebolted, so you need to carefully check each route to make sure it has all bolts as well as the anchor. However, there are also many great routes that have been rebolted or were never chopped. Generally speaking, we found that the sectors in the northwest part of Hatun Machay have more climbable routes.

In addition to Topos de Peru, you can buy a climbing guide book for the Huaraz area at Quechuandes in Huaraz for 90 Peruvian soles (about USD28). It has good quality color photos and topos for Hatun Machay and seemed like a good investment (also has great information for many other climbing areas around Huaraz).

At Hatun Machay, we stayed in one of the chositas (simple huts with stone floor) within the fenced area of the refugio and were charged 15 PEN per night. It was cold so be sure to bring adequate, warm sleeping material or be prepared to shiver through the nights Oct 9, 2017
bricepollock
on the road
bricepollock   on the road
Was here in September 2016. I found that some areas were completely untouched (Espanoles, Fideo Britchera), some were just a little run out with the first bolt clipped (Tiron del Sur) and some were completely clipped (la muralla). The refugio had all broken beds so you slept on the floor, no lighting inside and all the doors were missing and covered by sheets. Still recovering from the eviction of prior proprietor.

Wrote a post about my time here:
bricepollock.com/climbing-t… Jan 20, 2017
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  • **Very sad to relay that the vast majority of the routes at Hatun Mackay have been chopped. There was a conflict with the Refugio being taken over. Thread here, lets hope it's not as bad as it sounds - research before you go. More info Here
Aug 11, 2016
Alex Young
Denver, CO
Alex Young   Denver, CO
Hi, anyone looking for a partner or willing to climb sometime in the near future? im traveling through bolivia and peru and want to climb. i only have shoes and harness but have a lot of experience climbing.

cheers
alex

alexyoung28@gmail.com
9192606424 Jan 13, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
I fully agree with everyone else that Hatun Machay is awesome!!!

Some updated info from October 2014. From Huaraz, one way to get there is to take a colectivo from Huaraz to Catac for 3.5 soles pp, then a taxi from Catac to the refugio. We ended up paying 50 soles but sometimes I guess it might cost 40. Either way, $20 USD to get to a place in the mountains 2 hours away isn't so bad. The other, cheaper option would be to take another colectivo from Catac continuing south and then jump off at the road (KM 131 I think) and hike the 1.5 hours up hill the rest of the way to the refugio. That second colectivo should only cost 5 soles or so if you do it this way.

The refugio is great! Andres and friends have done an exceptional job. The kitchen is very well equipped. There is even potable water from the kitchen faucet (filtered from a spring). There are bathrooms and a shower and a wood burning stove to heat the place. There are two gas stoves for cooking (with ovens). There are pots, pans, utensils, means to prepare coffee, plastic bins to store food, etc etc. Basically everything you need. Probably advisable to bring a sleeping bag, even if staying inside, though the beds do have wool blankets and comforters too. The current cost is 30 soles ($10 US) per person per night to sleep in a bed or 20 soles to pitch a tent. Half of the money goes to support the local community / as a land use fee. Bring all of your own food as there aren't good options to resupply since you're not close to much.

As others have indicated, the best topo / guide info is via toposperu.com or the wordpress version of the site. There is a ton to climb here and it's a great vibe so plan to stay and enjoy yourself!! Oct 20, 2014
Alex Garcia
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Alex Garcia   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Just want to make an amendment to the description of Hatun above. Definitely volcanic tuff, not granite. From what I understand, Hatun used to be an ocean bed which has since been raised to elevation due to the the tectonic plates subverting under the South American coast. Hence, the Andes.

But thats somewhat irrelevant. The point is, the rock is sharp as hell, there is a lifetime of bouldering and sport potential (sorry traddies, not much for you here), its still extremely undeveloped, and bring good beer or wine for the refuge keepers. Its a tough life we live. Apr 20, 2013
Chndlr Alstrn
Pagosa Springs, CO
Chndlr Alstrn   Pagosa Springs, CO
I cut my sport climbing teeth in this area and it was a life changing place to say the least. Everyone in the refugio tends to be really cool and very easy to find a partner or group if you're on your own. If you haven't been an elevation, or even if you have, you will notice the toll the lack of oxygen takes while you're panting up a well pocketed 30 m route, but it's such a great temperature and unbelievable scenery that your heavy breathing doesn't seem as painful. Most of the routes set by Andres are closely bolted and made my newbie bolting skills grow in confidence without feeling too scared off by run outs. Definitely some scary overhangs/chimneys/landings if you don't have an attentive belayer, but all are good fun. The rock quality can best be described as SHARP. My skin was destroyed after climbing the better part of 2.5 weeks here not counting rest days. Having said that, that was also with a couple heavy bouldering days, but, don't forget that tape. Gets cold at night, so don't skimp on your insulation. VERY sunny here, so even though the temperature is great, bring sunscreen and a hat.

Climbing gear is super expensive in Peru so Andean Kingdom much like many guide services or guides, will often offer to buy your gear off you if you're so inclined. If you bought something on a great sale or just want to be a good climbing semaritan and bring some new sale stuff to sell, everyone will love you for it. Chalk, shoes, and draws seem to be the most sought after items not counting mountaineering gear, they're always after that. Jul 29, 2012
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
This place is a must-visit if you are in the "neighborhood". Jun 9, 2011
Amazing place to go and climb, hike or just soak in the landscape. I went there towards the middle of June and the weather was perfect. Peru basically has two seasons: wet and dry. The dry season coincides with the North American summer so pretty perfect to head down there for a few weeks (or months if you can) and climb away.
As any new place goes, some of the routes are still chossy and need to be cleaned and run up-and-down a few times to get rid of the poor holds. While I was down there, over 5-6 people were specifically at Hatun Machay to put up more routes so if you can, bring a kit and start bolting.
The cost of a flight down to Lima from the East Coast of the United States was about 400 USD one way. From there, you can take several different types of buses to Huaraz, a mecca of climbing and mountaineering, for about 30 USD. And from Huaraz to Hatun Machay via buses and taxis is about another 20 USD.
Also for a bit of trivia, Hatuan Machay means "rock forest". Enjoy the climb! Sep 18, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Hatun Machay sits at the 131km mark south of Huaraz. Around a 1.5-2hr drive is what to expect on the way to this gem of a sport climbing area. Camping exists just outside the refuge for those not willing to shell out the 25 soles to stay in the refugio. Bring all your food as there is non in the refugio. A stream 50ft behind the cabin provides good drinking water, but don't forget either your filter/steripen/tablets as there are a fair amount of cows wandering the area. There is a 5sole entrance fee to the area which is sometimes added to the cost of your transportation (if using andean kingdom), but this is not always the case so be sure to double check.

With an elevation around 4200meters Hatun Machay provides a refreshing sport climbing experience for the avid low elevation climber. Those who have not taken the time to acclimate need not worry to much though as most of the routes sport gymlike bolting and juges galore. Most of the grades tend to be in the 5.10-11 range with a few exceptions in either direction, but as with any climbing area you are sure to find inaccuracies in the ratings. The refugio offers the use of their topo's for free so be sure to snag one as soon as you get off the bus. Andean Kingdom (across from caca de guias in Huaraz) offers gear rental for sport climbing as well as mountaineering. A full sport climbing package including 2 harnesses, 2 belay devices w/ lockers, 15 qd's, 1 60m rope, a daisy chain w/ lockers, and shoes will run you 60 soles (about $23). Transportation to HM is split between everyone taking the bus there that day, which during high season is usually packed.

Bring your bolt kit and wire brush if you want to stay for a week or more because there are TONS of routes still to be climbed. Jun 25, 2010
Toposperu is now on:
www.toposperu.com Jul 5, 2009
The Andean kingdom ( andeankingdom.com ) is the travel agency that manages this climbing areas including the refugee.
Some of the rutes can be seen on this blog:
toposperu.wordpress.com/hua… Dec 19, 2008

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