Elevation: 7,795 ft
GPS: 44.332, -121.838 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 30,708 total · 207/month
Shared By: Stephen Davis on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Mt. Washington is an eroded volcanic plug in the central Oregon Cascades, the main rock types are basalts, including andesite. As with most Oregon cascade mountains the rock quality is generally crumbly and poor, however the quality does improve at the summit's exposed volcanic plug (still not super though). The majority of summits seem to happen from mid-June through September, although year round summit possibilities exist. There are several routes to the summit though the most popular is the North Ridge route. Make sure to sign the summit register!

Getting There

From Highway 20 you take the turn off for Big Lake/Hoodoo ski bowl near Santiam Pass and continue on this road for 4.2 miles (US forest Service road #2690) till the road ends at the Patjens Lake trail head there is parking here and all along the roads numerous turn-outs. Take the Patjens lake trail for about a mile (shortly after it leaves the lake) then cut south-east through game trails to meet up with the Pacific-Crest trail and continue along the PCT for another mile or so till you'll see the climbers trail to your left, it is supposedly marked by a cairn but is snow fields are still present it can be easy to miss so pay close attention, if you hit Cold water Springs you've gone to far. Follow the climbers trail/bushwhack east till you hit the ridge desired for your route. An alternative and my recommended approach (although it is a couple miles longer) is to park at the PCT trailhead turnout off Hwy 20, about 3/4 mile further down the road if comming from the west. From the trailhead take the PCT south till the climbers trail just before Cold Water Springs. Both trailheads require self issued wilderness permits available at the trailheads. And I'm not sure but think you might need a Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent. Call the McKenzie River Ranger District Phone: 541-822-3381 for additional information.

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mt. Washington Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Washington

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow
 49
North Ridge
Trad, Snow 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 11
Southeast Spur
Trad 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
West Ridge
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Ridge
 49
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow Trad, Snow 2 pitches
Southeast Spur
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 9 pitches
West Ridge
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Washington »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos