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Access Issue: 2024 - road closure
Details
Per Jason Kaplan: drive up CO Hwy 103 to Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) and go up Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans). There is a long lake on the left (Lincolin Lake) before you get to Summit Lake with some obvious rock features about 1000 feet above (right next to the road). There are a couple small pulloffs on the dropoff side of the road at and after the corner just as you pass over the top of the last cliff.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Ewoks Don't Sport Climb |
|
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0 PG13 Trad, Aid, Alpine | ||
| ● Columbine Crack |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Left Side New Routes |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Unknown Traverse |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Unknown 5.10+ |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Jabba |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 PG13 Trad, Aid, Alpine | ||
| ● Sport Dike |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Strobe Light Rodeo |
|
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Uncle Puffy |
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Gettysburg Address |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Balisong |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Pika |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Codeine |
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Another Load of Ginormous E… |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Kneel Armstrong |
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● The Gorilla Steps |
|
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, Alpine 3 pitches | ||
| ● Dear Sergio |
|
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● Sick Puppy |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● Easy Corner |
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Double Exposure |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● A Line |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● B Line |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Dan Hare's Route |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● Big Horns |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Goat Yoga |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Loose Bolt Slab |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Easy Flakes (name unknown) |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Golden Slab |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Left Colfax? |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● West Colfax |
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● Unlisted Corner |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Emancipation Arete |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Jack & Sally |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches | ||
| ● Marzipan |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | ||
| ● Lincoln Lake Apron |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches | ||
| ● Secret Ramp |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Keasbey Nights |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine | ||
| ● Short Arete |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine | ||
| ● Pneumoxia Crack |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine |
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Fort Collins, CO
Boulder
Golden, CO
(Aiding on Jabba is certainly recommendable wall training!)
Mar 14, 2013
denver, co
I agree that the proper name for the area should be used. With all due respect to the person who submitted "Lincoln's Wall"...he didn't realize routes had been done there years before and the area had a name.
Cheers,
josh Mar 14, 2013
Evergreen, CO
Just a heads up, probably not the best idea to post up routes here although I do know of some additional development done on the right side of the cliff in recent years. There is a good map on the Evans Wilderness site that shows which parts of the cliff are actually on wilderness, but it is only a small section. Mar 24, 2013
Golden, CO
Here is a link to the Denver Parks map: denvergov.org/Portals/747/d…
I would agree with Kevin's interpretation of the wilderness boundary as shown on maps; most of the slabs appear to be outside the wilderness and within the Mt. Evans Road buffer zone.
NEW ROUTES 2016
7/24: Tombo, the arete is seeming 5.7, maybe 5.8 - easier than Golden Slab (32 meters, ten bolts plus two at the anchor on a very nice ledge. Two yellow Aliens can help too but not too importantly.
The route to the left of the unnamed arete and right of Golden Slab is the most mega 5.6 sport pitch ever. Bolted close so neither cleaning nor stepping on the tundra is necessary (15 bolts plus two at the anchor, 35 meters). If one stops at the anchor for the 5.7 arete, then it is only 5.5 sport (nine protection bolts, 25 meters).
There is another mega sport pitch just right of Dan Hare's Route: Lightfoot & Quickfoot, 5.9-, fifteen bolts plus two double bolts anchors, since the route splits at the top. The right hand finish is 5.9+. =It may still need a first bolt for the intended audience.
Up the hill between Columbine Crack and Jabba is a new two pitch mostly sport route: Gordon Light Saber, 5.10+. Marsha Trout, Beth Bennett, and I could not quite nail the crux off the belay. Same day, Nicola Masciandaro and Bo Earle sent it quickly! Use #1 or #0.75 C4 Camalot on the first pitch (nine bolts, 5.9, V2 to get on belay ledge). The #1 really helps for A0-ing the crux, and some tiny cams help finish the monster traverse. 35 meters to the ground from the anchor on top. Swing left to Columbine Crack's starting ledge if you only have 30 meters. Jul 2, 2013
Boulder
Arvada, Co.
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