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Routes in Middle Rock

Albuquerque Route T,S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bats in the Belfry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bells in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mary Poppins in the Belfry S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Unknown (East of ABQ) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Middle Rock is the long, east-to-west oriented dome that lies just to the north of the Mosaic Rock. Most, or maybe all, of the established routes ascend the southern face of the dome, which Jackson describes as being "characterized by sweeping slabs capped by diagonaling crack systems and steeper headwalls and overhangs."

Several moderate to hard trad routes ascend the left side of the south face, some moderate bolted lines are near the center, and a moderate trad route and three hard bolted lines lie farther to the right side.
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Getting There

Most commonly approached by circling around the western end of the Mosaic Rock and passing through the gap between Mosaic and West Rock #1 to reach the left end of the south face of Middle Rock. An easy walk on well-defined user trails.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
"Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction? Nov 27, 2012

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