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Sugarite Canyon State Park

New Mexico > New Mexico, other Nor…

Description

Pronounced Sugar-reet. A 40-50' basalt cliff with a variety of fun vertical cracks & face climbs. Climbs have all been led, but toproping is possible on virtually all climbs: anchors (often bolts) are easily set up (you may need a longer stretch of webbing/rope for some of the climbs). The altitude (around 8,000') means that climbing can be nice even in the summer; however, the cliff faces SE, so it may get too warm even here.
Rock quality on the established climbs is usually very good.

Online guide information, excerpted from D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico book, can be found at cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/…

Getting There

Sugarite is NE of the town of Raton, NM. Raton is about 20 miles south of the Colorado border on Interstate 25. To get to the cliff: take exit 452 onto Highway 72. Follow 72 east and take a mild left onto 526 (signs point the way to Sugarite). As you travel up this road and enter the park, you'll either need to pay the day-use fee ($5 in 2020) at the kiosk, or continue up to your campground (you pay either the day-use fee or the camping fee [$10], not both) Showers are included with your payment of the day-use fee. About 2.5 miles past the visitor center is a dirt road leading left to Soda Pocket Campground. The campground is just under 2 miles up the road (and is the logical place to stay if climbing), but the parking for the climbing is just after a corral (~1.3 miles from the turn). The main trail, "Little Horse Mesa" trail leaves from the right side of the road near a sign that says "No horses or mules beyond this point".

Go right at the junction by the road, then look for a cairn on the left.  Follow the faint trail through brambles and talus to the base.  It gets steep, but only takes 15-25 minutes. You'll end up at the leftmost route, Bush Doctor.

Alternatively, approach the top of the cliff by going left at the junction by the road.  In a half mile, turn right on the Little Horse Mesa trail.  Once you're on the top, walk the half mile back to the top of the cliff.  You'll know you are close when you see a dry lake bed on your left.  Many routes have anchors suitable for rappelling from the top.  This might be an easier approach for routes on the far right, because the talus at the base is difficult to navigate.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated 2019 color Sugarite Canyon State Park map
[Hide Photo] Updated 2019 color Sugarite Canyon State Park map
Rainy day hike at Sugarite.
[Hide Photo] Rainy day hike at Sugarite.
Sunset at Sugarite
[Hide Photo] Sunset at Sugarite
Crack from Hell.  (5.10-)
[Hide Photo] Crack from Hell. (5.10-)
Bush doctor
[Hide Photo] Bush doctor
The sun setting on the cliffs at Sugarite State Park in the fall.
[Hide Photo] The sun setting on the cliffs at Sugarite State Park in the fall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

William Penner
The 505
[Hide Comment] It does not say it in the guidebook, but be very careful because of bears in the thick trees on the approach to cliff. You are almost guaranteed to see a few and I have repeatedly come within 10 to 20 feet of moms and cubs in this area; each time was quite a surprise. Usually they are cool and wander off.

Don't leave food in the pack and use caution when camping nearby, although I don't think the local bears are Yosemite-caliber thieves yet and able to break into cars.

W Feb 25, 2010
Rich Kelly
Boulder
[Hide Comment] The trail to the base leaves you left of the leftmost climb. Go right and you will soon be able to spot the bolts on Sangre Verde from which you can orient yourself. We came down the trail listed in the Falcon guide book (mid-cliff area), but it appears to no longer be used. Nov 5, 2015
Kyle D
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Visited this crag for the first time today. Just a couple of things to note: If you have to hike the road for Soda Pocket Campground because the gate is closed for the off-season (Dec-March) keep in mind that even though it is only 1.3 miles, it is uphill the entire way. Add snow to the mix and its a fairly substantial approach. Other than that, the climbing is pretty decent. Signage on the trails are well marked. I found the climbs pretty easily and was able to TR solo a few laps before work. Once the road is open I'll be climbing here pretty often. Dec 2, 2015
[Hide Comment] Hello climbers,
Soda pocket campground is closed in the off season(Nov 1st thru April 30th) The gate at the highway is locked with a combo lock. We do allow climbers access to the trailhead in Soda pocket with their vehicles. If you do go climbing, please let a staff member know or leave a phone message. If you would like the gate combo or any other info, you may contact me at rmcivor@state.nm.us or you may contact my office at 575-445-5607.

Robert McIvor- Park Superintendent. Feb 12, 2019
NOLAclimber76
New Orleans, La
[Hide Comment] Anyone been here in the last few weeks? We were hoping to do a bit of dad's day hiking and scope out climbs for future trips. Any beta on the current closed/open Covid situation? Calls to the state park go to VM. Jun 19, 2020
Gregory Bunting
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] We were told the road closure and Soda Pocket Campground closure is now Oct 1 - May 1. The visitor center was happy to give us the gate code, which was amazing (Thanks so much Robert!). There were empty spots at Lake Alice Campground both Friday & Saturday night (Oct 8 & 9).

We brought a 35m rope and it was usable, but a little short for some of the climbs. We had to do some scrambling up and down from the belay stances to tie-in and untie. Will just bring 60s next trip. Oct 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Good day climbers, Robert McIvor here. Sugarite Canyon State Park Superintendent. The new gate code to access the climbing area via Soda pocket road is 4131. As always, If you need more info, please contact the park at 575-445-5607. Be safe:) Oct 12, 2021
Joseffa Meir
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks to the park service for providing the gate code. It is much appreciated. We enjoyed it and will be back. Oct 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] Good day climbers, this is Zoe Gonzalez, current full time ranger at Sugarite Canyon. The current gate code to access the soda pocket road is 4131. Soda Pocket campground remains closed during winter, however, it will open again on May 1st. The road up to the access point is currently clear but a little muddy in places. As always be careful and if you have any questions please contact the park office at 575-445-5607. If it goes to voicemail, please leave us a message and we will get back to you. Thanks. Mar 25, 2022
Claire Mearns
Lafayette
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know how to access the referenced website (mentioned above) from D. Jackson's guide? The link above does not work. Thanks! Apr 22, 2022
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] Claire, I verified the link above does work if not using HTTPS. If your browser is forcing HTTPS to access the page at cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/… it will fail because the site's SSL certificate has been revoked. Try a browser that will allow you to access it using HTTP instead. Apr 25, 2022