Elevation: 8,082 ft
GPS: 36.98, -104.394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,563 total · 263/month
Shared By: Karl K on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Pronounced Sugar-reet. A 40-50' basalt cliff with a variety of fun vertical cracks & face climbs. Climbs have all been led, but toproping is possible on virtually all climbs: anchors (often bolts) are easily set up (you may need a longer stretch of webbing/rope for some of the climbs). The altitude (around 8,000') means that climbing can be nice even in the summer; however, the cliff faces SE, so it may get too warm even here.
Rock quality on the established climbs is usually very good.

Online guide information, excerpted from D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico book, can be found at cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/…

Getting There

Sugarite is NE of the town of Raton, NM. Raton is about 20 miles south of the Colorado border on Interstate 25. To get to the cliff: take exit 452 onto Highway 72. Follow 72 east and take a mild left onto 526 (signs point the way to Sugarite). As you travel up this road and enter the park, you will either need to pay the day-use fee ($5 in 2020) at the kiosk, or continue up to your campground (you pay either the day-use fee or the camping fee [$10], not both). About 2.5 miles past the visitor center (has free showers!) is a dirt road leading left to Soda Pocket Campground. The campground is just under 2 miles up the road (and is the logical place to stay if climbing), but the parking for the climbing is just after a corral (~1.3 miles from the turn). The main trail, "Little Horse Mesa" trail leaves from the right side of the road near a sign that says "No horses or mules beyond this point".

Go right at the junction by the road, then look for a cairn on the left.  Follow the faint trail through brambles and talus to the base.  It gets steep, but only takes 15-25 minutes. You'll end up at the leftmost route, Bush Doctor.

Alternatively, approach the top of the cliff by going left at the junction by the road.  In a half mile, turn right on the Little Horse Mesa trail.  Once you're on the top, walk the half mile back to the top of the cliff.  You will know you are close when you see a dry lake bed on your left.  Many routes have anchors suitable for rappelling from the top.  This might be an easier approach for routes on the far right, because the talus at the base is difficult to navigate.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarite Canyon State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Pete's Downclimb
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Up Your Arete
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Salt Mother
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Crack Head
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Right on Raton
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Great Roof Left
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Resurrection Link Up
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 7
Endless Summer
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Jam Your Blues Away
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Sangre Verde
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
The Crack From Hell
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Taos Lightning
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
S&M Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pete's Downclimb Little Horse Mesa
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Up Your Arete Little Horse Mesa
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Salt Mother Little Horse Mesa
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Crack Head Little Horse Mesa
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Right on Raton Little Horse Mesa
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Great Roof Left Little Horse Mesa
 28
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Resurrection Link Up Little Horse Mesa
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Endless Summer Little Horse Mesa
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Jam Your Blues Away Little Horse Mesa
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sangre Verde Little Horse Mesa
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
The Crack From Hell Little Horse Mesa
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Taos Lightning Little Horse Mesa
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
S&M Crack Little Horse Mesa
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarite Canyon State Park »

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