Sugarite Canyon State Park Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.98, -104.394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Karl K on Jun 18, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Rock quality on the established climbs is usually very good.
Online guide information, excerpted from D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico book, can be found at cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/…
Go right at the junction by the road, then look for a cairn on the left. Follow the faint trail through brambles and talus to the base. It gets steep, but only takes 15-25 minutes. You'll end up at the leftmost route, Bush Doctor.
Alternatively, approach the top of the cliff by going left at the junction by the road. In a half mile, turn right on the Little Horse Mesa trail. Once you're on the top, walk the half mile back to the top of the cliff. You will know you are close when you see a dry lake bed on your left. Many routes have anchors suitable for rappelling from the top. This might be an easier approach for routes on the far right, because the talus at the base is difficult to navigate.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarite Canyon State Park
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