Sugarite Canyon State Park Rock Climbing

Sugarite is NE of the town of Raton, NM. Raton is about 20 miles south of the Colorado border on Interstate 25. To get to the cliff: take exit 452 onto Highway 72. Follow 72 east and take a mild left onto 526 (signs point the way to Sugarite). As you travel up this road and enter the park, you'll either need to pay the day-use fee ($5 in 2020) at the kiosk, or continue up to your campground (you pay either the day-use fee or the camping fee [$10], not both) Showers are included with your payment of the day-use fee. About 2.5 miles past the visitor center is a dirt road leading left to Soda Pocket Campground. The campground is just under 2 miles up the road (and is the logical place to stay if climbing), but the parking for the climbing is just after a corral (~1.3 miles from the turn). The main trail, "Little Horse Mesa" trail leaves from the right side of the road near a sign that says "No horses or mules beyond this point".

Go right at the junction by the road, then look for a cairn on the left.  Follow the faint trail through brambles and talus to the base.  It gets steep, but only takes 15-25 minutes. You'll end up at the leftmost route, Bush Doctor.

Alternatively, approach the top of the cliff by going left at the junction by the road.  In a half mile, turn right on the Little Horse Mesa trail.  Once you're on the top, walk the half mile back to the top of the cliff.  You'll know you are close when you see a dry lake bed on your left.  Many routes have anchors suitable for rappelling from the top.  This might be an easier approach for routes on the far right, because the talus at the base is difficult to navigate.