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Routes in Albany Slabs

Fool's For A Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gemini Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Reelin' In the Fears T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Standard and Poors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tao of Dow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Elevation: 820 ft
GPS: 43.963, -71.159 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,318 total, 29/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

This is a nice sunny slab (South exposure, like Humphrey's, makes this one of the earlier climbing areas to "thaw" in the spring) with some cool routes.

Most of the routes start from a ledge that is about 30 ft above the top of the talus. This ledge is accessed from the right side of the cliff. The access moves are on slabby rock which is often covered with leaves and/or pine needles; some will prefer a rope here. Once established on the ledge one can move fairly freely, but belayers should be cognizant of the drop off and tie in.
Private Property Details

Getting There

NOTE: Part, if not all, of the approach and climbing is on private property. Needless to say, treat the land gently, climb quietly, and climb carefully.

You can view the slab from a large, sandy pull-out which is 0.9 miles south on Rt 113 (and about 0.1 - 0.2 Mi south of a brown cottage on the pond).

On Rt 16, a few miles south of Conway Village and the "Kanc", and 1.0 mile south of where Rt 113 branches left (west/south) is a pull-out on the right (north). Park near the "Conway end" of this and, starting at a 3ft high boulder, go straight into the woods (up steeply at first) to an open area that's been logged, then angle slightly right through the mostly open woods. About 5-8 min from the car you'll intersect a "woods road", turn right and follow this to a large boulder on the left with cairn(s) marking the very obvious hiker's path. Follow this through a swampy area and gain the dry land beyond. Now, 3 choices:

1) Diagonal off right and though the HUGE boulders, then up to the right side of the cliff and then "scramble" left (more like 5.2-5.4 X) to the ledge where most climbs start. (After climbing you can avoid "down-climbing" this scramble by a 30-40ft rap off the ledge, or take the hiking trail down if all your gear is with you.) ...or

2) Continue on the hiker's path which leads to the open talus field (some cairns), up this about 1/2 way and then cut right to the steep slope ABOVE the huge boulders mentioned in #1, hike right on steep ground, slabbing across just below the base of the cliff to the far right and the "scramble" mentioned in choice #1....or

3) Continue on the hiker's path to the summit. Enjoy the view and sign the register. Find the fixed, double-bolt anchor at the top of "Reeling in the Fears" and rap with 2 ropes. (Don't believe the " 105 ft" indicated by some guidebook(s) !) This approach is, of course, much easier if, at one time, you've climbed the route from below and know where the anchors are in relationship to the summit!

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albany Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
The Tao of Dow
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Reelin' In the Fears
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fool's For A Day
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Tao of Dow 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Reelin' In the Fears 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad
Fool's For A Day 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
We need some nice photos for this area. Anybody have any? Jan 30, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Some very nice bouldering under the slab as well, up to V8 or so. Feb 8, 2010

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