Band M (Re-opened) Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||john strand on Jun 17, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
2. See "Getting There"
Access now (Dec. 2017) starts on Rt 16 by Tanglewood Motel. Please DO NOT use the old access from Rt 113. Access is still over private land so respect property rights and keep noise down to a minimum, especially near the parking area. Please DO NOT go "exploring" at the old quarry.
Driving southbound on Rt16 from the Conway area, turn left into an unmarked gravel road 1.1 miles south of where Rt 113 turns off. (2.5 Mi south of Rt112/Kancamangus Highway). This road will look like you are driving into two of the Tanglewood Motel cottages and starts where there is a Tangelwood sign on a granite boulder. (photo) Take the gravel road about 0.1-0.2 Mi. to the end and park. [parking for 5-6 cars]
Cross the stream on a somewhat decrepit bridge and then take an immediate hard left. In a few feet you'll come to the Access Fund & Friends of the Ledges "Welcome Sign". Continue on the old logging road. After 3-4 min keep right and then pass an old car dashboard and boulders from the old quarry. (The old approach trail from Rt 113 comes in here.) Bear right again, and soon the logging rd drops downward to a flat area. To your right through the trees is the far right (north) end of the cliff. Look for a cleared/flagged path up to the base ( see comments, thanks Mike) that branches off to the right before the HUGE boulder.
There also used to be a faint trail to the base that start(ed) "behind" the big boulder.
From Mike Morin's comment below: Here's a map of the parking/approach;ll=43.95381090578334%2C-71.1660862&z=16
Note- when I tried the above link it simply positioned me where I was located. Whether the link or my IPad…who knows?!
If you try and map this, Google Maps sends you down Fall Ln. DON'T access via Fall Ln., it's marked as a private drive and we don't want to piss off the locals. Drive just past Fall Ln. and take the Class 6 road just before Tangle Wood.
Nightflyer, Sacred Space and of course Heavy Weather Sailing are really out there !!!
This is a complicated cliff and finding routes can be tough, hang in there, they are worth it !
After being closed for several years, a joint effort by the Access Fund and the local Friends of the Ledges has resulted in the access to the cliff being re-opened in Dec 2017.
Classic Climbing Routes at Band M (Re-opened)
Days w Precip