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Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 885 ft
GPS: 43.952, -71.168 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,870 total, 51/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Sunny and Buggy- but it gets better up high. I would not climb here in the spring. Good rock overall and some really WILD climbs.
Nightflyer, Sacred Space and of course Heavy Weather Sailing are really out there !!!
This is a complicated cliff and finding routes can be tough, hang in there, they are worth it !

After being closed for several years, a joint effort by the Access Fund and the local Friends of the Ledges has resulted in the access to the cliff being re-opened.
Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details

Getting There

Access now (Dec. 2017) starts on Rt 16 by Tanglewood Motel. Please DO NOT use the old access from Rt 113. Access is still over private land so respect property rights and keep noise down to a minimum, especially near the parking area. Please DO NOT go "exploring" at the old quarry.

Driving southbound on Rt16 from the Conway area, turn left into an unmarked gravel road 1.1 miles south of where Rt 113 turns off. (2.5 Mi south of Rt112/Kancamangus Highway). This road will look like you are driving into two of the Tanglewood Motel cottages and starts where there is a Tangelwood sign on a granite boulder. (photo) Take the gravel road about 0.1-0.2 Mi. to the end and park. [parking for 5-6 cars]

Cross the stream on a somewhat decrepit bridge and then take an immediate hard left. In a few feet you'll come to the Access Fund & Friends of the Ledges "Welcome Sign". Continue on the old logging road. After 3-4 min keep right and then pass an old car dashboard and boulders from the old quarry. (The old approach trail from Rt 113 comes in here.) Bear right again, and soon the logging rd drops downward to a flat area. To your right through the trees is the far right (north) end of the cliff. Continue up the logging road to the HUGE boulder. Here the middle of the cliff is to your right through the trees and boulders. 10-15 min. from the car. There used to be a faint trail to the base that start(ed) "behind" the big boulder.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hercules
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
If Dogs Run Free 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Hercules 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Joe M.    
Now open, thanks to the Access Fund and Friends of the Ledges!

accessfund.org/news-and-eve… Dec 6, 2017
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Map showing new access route and parking.
google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=…

If you try and map this, Google Maps sends you down Fall Ln. DON'T access via Fall Ln., it's marked as a private drive and we don't want to piss off the locals. Drive just past Fall Ln. and take the Class 6 road just before Tangle Wood. Dec 7, 2017
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Following up on the directions for "Getting There". I cleared and flagged a path off the old logging road that leads up to the base of the cliff. It leaves the logging road prior to the huge boulder described in the directions on this page. I thought it was pretty obvious when I cleared it, but I'll go back out and mark the turn off more clearly in the next couple of days. If you follow the trail I cleared it will deposit you at the base of Three Wogs. Thanks for getting this page updated. Dec 9, 2017
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Ben, are you aware the cliff is closed by the land owners? Unless something has changed, your threatening the potential reopening by not heeding the current closure. Something to consider... Aug 25, 2013
Ben Maxfield
Parsonsfield Maine
Ben Maxfield   Parsonsfield Maine
I went back up to Band M just the other day August 24 , 2013 with my old partner to climb general hospital A3 ... The last time I soloed the route in 2000 I left a couple more fixed pieces and was happy to still see them in place :) the bashie down low and the nut up in the overhang crack , I did notice that someone did nail this very fragile climb harder then needed and blew out some spots with large flakes blown off the climb! This makes aid moves very hard in some spots :( another bolt will have to be added to the upper destroyed flake . Sadly I've noticed a lot of this bad pin work on the nail ups on cathedral as well :( I've returned to Band M to finish my aid climb on the far left side of the cliff past heavy weather sailing . I had started this climb some 13 years ago and will be posting pictures and finishing this A3 nail up this Memorial Day weekend so keep posted :) Aug 25, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Addendum to a previous comment I made:

According to Joe Cote, “There is a common misconception that has been perpetuated in some guidebooks about the name of Band M Ledge. It was not a mistake, as some believe. While it is true that there are AMC maps with "B and M Railroad" in close proximity to the ledge, the USGS 1958 topo for the Ossipee Lake quandrangle clearly identifies Band M Ledge, its sister Whitton Ledge, as well as the Boston and Maine RR”

Taken from the neclimbs area description. Apr 17, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There is a bit more information in the discussion at NEClimbs neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.ph… Mar 13, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Closed! Tragically this great cliff is closed until further notice. Apparently a theft at the gravel yard caused Coleman to close access to the cliff. Good thread on NEClimbs Mar 13, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Interesting it is as if somewhere along the line, the space between the B and AND was lost resulting in Band M. cool catch Jeffrey. Mar 23, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I noticed that Rock 'n' Road has this listed as "B and M Ledge (aka B&M Ledge)". This is presumably named after the B and M Railroad nearby. Everywhere else refers to this crag as Band M. Mar 23, 2011
S. Neoh  
Yeah, I have. It is BIG and impressive. I was with the family this trip up so no bouldering. Besides, the pad would not have fit in the back of the Suby with all the luggage and junk we brought up! :) Sep 23, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
From the road, maybe 20-25 minutes ? Next time up there , go check out the Madison Boulder. Very impressive. Sep 23, 2010
S. Neoh  
I noticed the cliff from Rt113 last weekend and did not realize it was Band M. Rt16/Rt113 junction is just over two hours drive from Bos with light traffic. How long is the hike in? Looked like there might be parking on the side of Rt113 before intersection with Rt16. Yes? Sep 23, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I knew the left side climbs under the butcher block stayed dry, but I was out there this past saturday (torrential downpour) expecting the worst and ended up with the best. All five climbs were dry enough to get on and have fun with. Aug 31, 2009

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