Band M (Opened Dec 2017) Rock Climbing
Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)
|3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|General Hospital A3|
|Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|GPS:||43.952, -71.168 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||5,870 total, 51/month|
|Shared By:||john strand on Jun 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionSunny and Buggy- but it gets better up high. I would not climb here in the spring. Good rock overall and some really WILD climbs.
Nightflyer, Sacred Space and of course Heavy Weather Sailing are really out there !!!
This is a complicated cliff and finding routes can be tough, hang in there, they are worth it !
After being closed for several years, a joint effort by the Access Fund and the local Friends of the Ledges has resulted in the access to the cliff being re-opened.
Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details
See "Getting There"
Getting ThereAccess now (Dec. 2017) starts on Rt 16 by Tanglewood Motel. Please DO NOT use the old access from Rt 113. Access is still over private land so respect property rights and keep noise down to a minimum, especially near the parking area. Please DO NOT go "exploring" at the old quarry.
Driving southbound on Rt16 from the Conway area, turn left into an unmarked gravel road 1.1 miles south of where Rt 113 turns off. (2.5 Mi south of Rt112/Kancamangus Highway). This road will look like you are driving into two of the Tanglewood Motel cottages and starts where there is a Tangelwood sign on a granite boulder. (photo) Take the gravel road about 0.1-0.2 Mi. to the end and park. [parking for 5-6 cars]
Cross the stream on a somewhat decrepit bridge and then take an immediate hard left. In a few feet you'll come to the Access Fund & Friends of the Ledges "Welcome Sign". Continue on the old logging road. After 3-4 min keep right and then pass an old car dashboard and boulders from the old quarry. (The old approach trail from Rt 113 comes in here.) Bear right again, and soon the logging rd drops downward to a flat area. To your right through the trees is the far right (north) end of the cliff. Continue up the logging road to the HUGE boulder. Here the middle of the cliff is to your right through the trees and boulders. 10-15 min. from the car. There used to be a faint trail to the base that start(ed) "behind" the big boulder.
Classic Climbing Routes at Band M (Opened Dec 2017)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season