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03. The Reserve

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bo… > S Bluff

Description

The Reserve is nicely concentrated bouldering area up on the South Bluff. All the problems here are top quality, with grades ranging from V0-V9. There are stand-out problems on the Lake Boulder, a free standing chunk of stone with problems all the way around it.  One notably is the Starfish problem V6. Many of the hard classics were established by Paul Jones and Eric Z., as well as many others who have frequented the area.

Along the way there is a short cliff band on the southern side of the rim. This is the Amazing Pillar area. A few good problems here, including maybe the best V6 in the park- The Amazing Pillar.

Getting There

Park in the lot near the boat launch along the South Shore Rd. From south-west corner of lot walk straight into the woods looking for concrete slabs. Trail goes straight up hill from here. Stay on trail til you reach rocks along the north rim of bluff. Look down and you should see the Lake boulder. 20-30min hike.

If you hike south from trail when it plateaus you can reach the Amazing Pillar area.

Last time I was up there, the trail was obvious. Good luck, and have fun.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marker in the woods from the concrete slabs. The trail goes up left in the picture. Just keep your eyes on the trail and it will lead you to the boulders. Good luck
[Hide Photo] Marker in the woods from the concrete slabs. The trail goes up left in the picture. Just keep your eyes on the trail and it will lead you to the boulders. Good luck
Remo and Mike G. sending the 1st and 2nd sends of the SE corner of the lake boulder
[Hide Photo] Remo and Mike G. sending the 1st and 2nd sends of the SE corner of the lake boulder
Remo climbing the west face of the amazing pillar. The south face and SE arete are two of the major classics at DLSP
[Hide Photo] Remo climbing the west face of the amazing pillar. The south face and SE arete are two of the major classics at DLSP
Roberto D. sticking the throw on Starfish. Sept 08.
[Hide Photo] Roberto D. sticking the throw on Starfish. Sept 08.
Another pic of west face
[Hide Photo] Another pic of west face
Paul J. sending the lake boulder west face. One of the best problems on the boulder. climbs face left of standard route.
[Hide Photo] Paul J. sending the lake boulder west face. One of the best problems on the boulder. climbs face left of standard route.
Starfish and fun Corner Problem
[Hide Photo] Starfish and fun Corner Problem
The Lake Boulder.
[Hide Photo] The Lake Boulder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

EB
Winona
[Hide Comment] Possibly the last major unclimbed problem in the park is the center crack line on the east face of the Lake boulder. Eric Z. and I logged many hours on it but neither unlocked the cryptic problem. If it has been sent please let me know. Should check in at V6-7 but suoper subtle. Jun 17, 2008
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Lots of hard and technical bouldering in there. There are more hard problems I think than there are easier problems. It is not a very big area so finding the individual problems once you are in there is no problem. Jul 29, 2008
Aviv Spillinger
Royal Oak, MI
[Hide Comment] As of today, the hardest part of the approach is finding the beginning of the trail from the parking lot. To find the trail, keep right when first entering the parking lot- the trail begins at the 5th parking spot on the right (facing southwest) as a narrow, hardly distinguishable, trampled down strip of tall grass. The trail becomes much more evident in a few feet. Using the directions posted elsewhere on this thread and the with cairns marking the entire way to the Reserve, you can’t get lost. Good luck! Aug 5, 2018
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] The user trail is well-enough defined that I went ahead and added it to the MP maps feature. Keep in mind that climbers are not the only people who use this area - there are also adventurous hikers, and hunters in the gun-deer and spring turkey seasons. Aug 5, 2018
Peter Lund
Eau Claire, WI
[Hide Comment] Once finding the inlet for the trail it is very clear where you’re supposed to go to get out to the reserve. Figured I’d reiterate that for anyone hesitant to come out here in fear of getting lost. The hike in is gradually uphill the whole way so look forward to a slightly easier hike back out to your car. Climbing here was loads of fun! Aug 30, 2021
T Russ
Milwaukee
[Hide Comment] The hike in is a bit more than described by others. Someone else said 20 - 30 minute hike. Not true. First, it’s about 1.7 or 1.8 miles. Second, the ascent is about 450 feet. It’s a 1 to 3% rise the whole way up. And as the trail isn’t maintained by the park, there are a lot of fallen trees in the way. Plus you have a bouldering pad on your back. So plan on something more like a 35 to 40 min. hike in. Better to know what you’re in for!

Is it worth it? Of course. And not just because of the number of problems but the nice layout where there’s so much in a small radius. We visited the third week in May the day after a nightime rainstorm: the gnats were out in full force. Aided by the wind, the rock was dry. May 23, 2024
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] T Russ, I Garmin'ed it with my watch GPS recently and it was 1.60km (~1 mile) from the parking lot to the first boulder at the reserve. Ascent is 127 meters. The Amazing Pillar turnoff is 1.2km or 0.75 miles from the parking lot. How long it takes depends on factors - took me 19 minutes to get down (stopping a couple times to take pics and to pee) - I can’t say how long it took to get up because I stopped at AP. I could also tell you my stride length, heart rate, etc if you want it haha. May 23, 2024
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] This suggests it's about a mile:
mountainproject.com/approac…

By the time you get there, the trail pretty much ends, so you are unlikely to overshoot. May 25, 2024