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Crack In The Woods

New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Description

Shaded and sometimes buggy, this area has one of the state's best 5.10 cracks. Crack in the Woods should be on every 5.10 climber's tick list. At one time, there were sport routes on this cliff, but in a fit of ethics, they were chopped. Many have talked of reinstalling these routes, but as of yet, the chopper has gotten the last word.

(edit - Closet Full of Klonopin was rebolted)

Getting There

"Park on the Kanc about 1.3 miles west of the Albany Covered Bridge at a small pullout above a primo swimming area. Cross the river, [See Note 1 ] and walk straight into the woods, maybe following a drainage to a cliff."

Updated directions (Oct, 2023): 

EASY STAY-DRY DIRECTIONS (by Nick Grant, with a bit of editing) :
1) Cross the Albany Covered Bridge, take a left, go through the metal gate, and follow the wide logging road.
2) Stay on the logging road the whole way (ignore the blue-blazed skinny ski trail). Stay on the main line. [See NOTE 2 ]
3) After 35-40 minutes on the road, you will come to a massive wide clearing. It's obvious.
4) At the clearing, walk across it at two o'clock (NW) to another logging road on the other side.
5) Walk about sixty yards up this trail, and you will see a big cairn on your right.
6) Take a right into the woods at the cairn, and walk up next to a drainage gully for about ten minutes.
7) You will probably see the crag through the trees (above and to your left).
 8) Leave the gully and head up and left for a few minutes to the crag.

Note 1  Hurricane Irene (2011) changed the river at this old crossing and it's not as easy as it once was.

NOTE2- The "slightly wet option"  that cuts out about 1 1/4 miles each way is to use the river crossing about 1/4 mile upstream of Lower Falls, as described in Rainbow Slabs main page. When you get to the main logging road continue on it as described above. You should get to the "massive clearing" in about 10 minutes.

 

Routes from Left to Right

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 36
Crack In The Woods
Trad
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 0
Closet Full of Klonopin
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 1
Pumping Station
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack In The Woods
 36
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Closet Full of Klonopin
 0
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Pumping Station
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Winter at crack in the woods. The crack itself was dry even though everything else around it was ice and running water... Another great winter option :)
[Hide Photo] Winter at crack in the woods. The crack itself was dry even though everything else around it was ice and running water... Another great winter option :)
Crack in the Woods
[Hide Photo] Crack in the Woods
This is the big clearing (2023).  You can see the top of the crag in the top-middle of the photo.
[Hide Photo] This is the big clearing (2023). You can see the top of the crag in the top-middle of the photo.
This cairn (2023) marks where you leave the logging road and head up the drainage gully to the crag.
[Hide Photo] This cairn (2023) marks where you leave the logging road and head up the drainage gully to the crag.
Another potential line, a nice seam left of CITW
[Hide Photo] Another potential line, a nice seam left of CITW
This has to be the start of an old route. Anybody? If not, quite a bit of quality potential still at this crag.
[Hide Photo] This has to be the start of an old route. Anybody? If not, quite a bit of quality potential still at this crag.
Section of the wall where you find Pumping Station, I believe.
[Hide Photo] Section of the wall where you find Pumping Station, I believe.
This is a very obvious crack in corner around left of Crack in the Woods. Anybody know anything about it?
[Hide Photo] This is a very obvious crack in corner around left of Crack in the Woods. Anybody know anything about it?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew P
North Bend, WA
[Hide Comment] The GPS point for this cliff is on the wrong cliff on the map, as a heads up in case you try and use the MP map feature while searching for this cliff... You might be really confused about why you can't find the crack at the cliff that this takes you too. Oct 15, 2019
Nick Woodman
Saco, ME
[Hide Comment] Interesting that the GPS point on MP is correct but even after redownloading the route pack for NH, the GPS point on my app is incorrect. Use caution when trusting the app! It took us to the base of bear Mt. Slabs. Did find it eventually. There is currently a cairn on the logging trail about 100 yards after a large clearing just pass the Rainbow slabs approach. If you crest a hill on the logging road, you've gone too far. Jul 17, 2020
Andrew P
North Bend, WA
[Hide Comment] Finally made it back out here. Just to confirm - the GPS point that the map shows now is correct. I didn't check on the app while I was out there, so I can't comment on that.

I used the GPS tracks from the guidebook to find it this time. It made the approach very easy. Aug 1, 2020
Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
[Hide Comment] EASY STAY-DRY DIRECTIONS:
1) Cross the Albany Covered Bridge, take a left, go through the metal gate, and follow the wide logging road.
2) Stay on the logging road the whole way (ignore the blue-blazed skinny ski trail). Stay on the main line.
3) After 35-40 minutes on the road, you will come to a massive wide clearing. It's obvious.
4) At the clearing, walk across it at two o'clock (NW) to another logging road on the other side.
5) Walk about sixty yards up this trail, and you will see a big cairn on your right.
6) Take a right into the woods at the cairn, and walk up next to a drainage gully for about ten minutes.
7) You will probably see the crag through the trees (above and to your left).
8) Leave the gully and head up and left for a few minutes to the crag. Oct 20, 2023