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Routes in Crack In The Woods

Closet Full of Klonopin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Crack In The Woods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumping Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Elevation: 1,740 ft
GPS: 44.018, -71.272 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,626 total, 40/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Shaded and sometimes buggy, this area has one of the state's best 5.10 cracks. Crack in the Woods should be on every 5.10 climber's tick list. At one time, there were sport routes on this cliff, but in a fit of ethics, they were chopped. Many have talked of reinstalling these routes, but as of yet, the chopper has gotten the last word.

(edit - Closet Full of Klonopin was rebolted)

Getting There

Park on the Kanc about 1.3 miles west of the Albany Covered Bridge at a small pullout above a primo swimming area. Cross the river, and walk straight into the woods, maybe following a drainage to a cliff.

2014 updated version of David Aguasca's directions: Alternate approach, recommended for the spring (don't try crossing the river...it's an easy way to go for a swim): Park at the Albany Covered Bridge Parking. On the north end of the bridge, to the left, is a broad, gated dirt road, which is the beginning of the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail and access for logging. Walk up this dirt road to a brand new iron bridge. About 150 ft past this bridge the ski trail breaks from the road on the left. Follow the ski trail, crossing 5 small wooden bridges. About a minute past the fifth bridge, look for a cairn on the right side of the path, marking where a faint old trail or track veirs off making a "Y". You can probably see the outline of a rounded hill above, even with the leaves out. That is where you are headed. follow the faint track away from the river a few minutes until you run into a drainage, which will then lead you right up to the crag. The cliff is only 5 or 10 minutes from the main ski trail. If you are wondering around for 45 minutes, you have gone way past it. The approach should be very easy and no more than 35-45 minutes.

Spring 2015 Update - As of 4/21/15, the Forest Service has re-opened the new logging road to foot and bike travel from Albany Covered Bridge west. (It HAD been closed WEEKDAYS to all use due to active logging.)

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crack In The Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack In The Woods
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack In The Woods 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Updated the direction in for 2014. I hiked in this Saturday to check it out and found it really easy to find. Followed the road/ski trail for about 30 minutes until I was past Rainbow Slabs, then angled in a bit to a drainage that took me right there.

The woods all along the way in were completely covered with hundreds of survey markings, paint blazes and ribbons of all colors, so trying to find ones marking a climbers path was pointless. I built a cairn next to the ski trail where you head in that should be enough to get you going in at the right spot. Who knows how long it stays up. The key point is it is abt. a minute after the fifth little wooden bridge on the ski trail after you pass the new iron bridge and leave the dirt road. Sep 9, 2014

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