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Elevation: 1,437 ft 438 m
GPS: 44.01767, -71.26066
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,823 total · 86/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 10, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Shaded and sometimes buggy, this area has one of the state's best 5.10 cracks. Crack in the Woods should be on every 5.10 climber's tick list. At one time, there were sport routes on this cliff, but in a fit of ethics, they were chopped. Many have talked of reinstalling these routes, but as of yet, the chopper has gotten the last word.

(edit - Closet Full of Klonopin was rebolted)

Getting There Suggest change

"Park on the Kanc about 1.3 miles west of the Albany Covered Bridge at a small pullout above a primo swimming area. Cross the river, [See Note 1 ] and walk straight into the woods, maybe following a drainage to a cliff."

Updated directions (Oct, 2023): 

EASY STAY-DRY DIRECTIONS (by Nick Grant, with a bit of editing) :
1) Cross the Albany Covered Bridge, take a left, go through the metal gate, and follow the wide logging road.
2) Stay on the logging road the whole way (ignore the blue-blazed skinny ski trail). Stay on the main line. [See NOTE 2 ]
3) After 35-40 minutes on the road, you will come to a massive wide clearing. It's obvious.
4) At the clearing, walk across it at two o'clock (NW) to another logging road on the other side.
5) Walk about sixty yards up this trail, and you will see a big cairn on your right.
6) Take a right into the woods at the cairn, and walk up next to a drainage gully for about ten minutes.
7) You will probably see the crag through the trees (above and to your left).
 8) Leave the gully and head up and left for a few minutes to the crag.

Note 1  Hurricane Irene (2011) changed the river at this old crossing and it's not as easy as it once was.

NOTE2- The "slightly wet option"  that cuts out about 1 1/4 miles each way is to use the river crossing about 1/4 mile upstream of Lower Falls, as described in Rainbow Slabs main page. When you get to the main logging road continue on it as described above. You should get to the "massive clearing" in about 10 minutes.

 

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crack In The Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 35
Crack In The Woods
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack In The Woods
 35
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
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