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Utah Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon

Description

There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.

Getting There

The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't C…
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Unnamed
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Unnamed Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
Utah Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Unknown (TR)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
In The Pink
Trad, Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Apex
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Apex Right
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Shotgun (Variation)
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 46
Shotgun
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Lawyers, Guns, and Money
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
unknown (right most crack in the…
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 2
Right of the Roof
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Airtime
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Love My Wife But She Does…
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Unnamed
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Unnamed Dihedral
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Utah Crack
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Unknown (TR)
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
In The Pink
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Apex
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Apex Right
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Shotgun (Variation)
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Shotgun
 46
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Lawyers, Guns, and Money
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
unknown (right most crack i…
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Right of the Roof
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Airtime
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Utah Wall - Central Roof Area<br>
<br>
Shows three climbs in the central area. Other variations exist. Bolt 'x's placements approximate for upper 2 bolts on L,G&M
[Hide Photo] Utah Wall - Central Roof Area Shows three climbs in the central area. Other variations exist. Bolt 'x's placements approximate for upper 2 bolts on L,G&M

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
[Hide Comment] As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.' Apr 20, 2010