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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 4,800 ft
GPS: 41.238, -111.913 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,539 total · 76/month
Shared By: Robert 560 on Jun 7, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.

Getting There

The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Utah Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 48
Utah Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 43
Shotgun
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Shotgun (Variation)
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Lawyers, Guns, and Money
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Airtime
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Utah Crack
 48
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Shotgun
 43
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Shotgun (Variation)
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Lawyers, Guns, and Money
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Airtime
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.' Apr 20, 2010

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