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Routes in Red Dragon

Acquaintance, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Addiction Friction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobcat Martini S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crown Jewel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crowned Fool S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Foaming Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friend of the Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Humblebee S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pet Meds S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soul Seller S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Squirrel Talk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight To The Gullet S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wings Of Change [Open Project] S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed for Forest Thinning Details

Description

Red Dragon is a small chunk of dacite visible from downtown Flagstaff, just east of, and at almost the same elevation as, the Devil's Chair. Viewed from the west at sunset, the features on it's west/northwest face resemble a redish orange dragon with it's wings held up. A horned Devil's Head can also be seen between it's raised wings(perhaps the origin of the Devil's Head name given to the lower western peak of Mt Elden). Red Dragon currently hosts nine sport climbs, all about 50 to 60 feet tall. The cliff is shady until 1pm, and can be very windy, especially on the more exposed, upper section of the wall. Summer mornings are good, but when it is cold, afternoon is better. It's a more adventurous sport cliff with a steep approach and some good exposure on the upper routes.

Getting There

Park at the end of Paradise Road, same as Gloria's Rocks parking. Hike the most direct path to Glorias.

From Gloria's rocks, the crux is getting to the beginning of the climbers trail, which begins at the edge of the biggest drainage/gulley that curves down the face of Elden below the Devils Chair and Red Dragon. From Glorias, follow the obvious trail east along the base of the mountain. At each trail intersection, follow the trail that leads most directly toward the cliff seen high above.

After a steep section that climbs out of a smaller gulley, ignore the trail going up left and down right(neither heading toward the cliff above), and head straight across and up an open grassy area to the rim of the big gulley mentioned earlier.

A trail skirts the edge of the big gulley. Scan back and forth along this section of trail looking for the beginning of the climbers trail, which angles down right into the gulley. A cairn should be present where it starts, and more cairns mark the climbers trail from then on. You should reach two good size(climbable)boulders in the bottom of the drainage. Even if you find these boulders accidentally, they are your last chance to get on the right track to the cliff, and save yourself from a horrendous bushwack.

Pass the two boulders on their southern side. Continue up the steepening trail. You will first arrive at some short rocks at the lower end of the cliff band. Follow cairns up the vague path along the base until you reach the bigger chunks higher up. You will eventually reach a flat landing/staging area under some big pine trees. Two 5.10s(warm-ups)are located here. 45 minutes. Continue further up to find the other routes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Dragon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Foaming Fox
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Bobcat Martini
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Crown Jewel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Foaming Fox
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bobcat Martini
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Crown Jewel
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Red Dragon »

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