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Routes in The Turret

5.10c/d Hands/Fist Crack, East side T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Another SPlatte Special T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1

Description

This spire sits out in the open, the top pinnacle on a hill. It is rarely climbed, and with good reason - it is mank.

No shade to be had, except on the north side of the summit spire. This large rock sits in the midst of the 2002 Hayman fire.

I doubt you would see anyone all day in and/or on this peak/spire. You will be very isolated - road traffic is nonexistant. Phone coverage is spotty at best. If things go poorly on you, it would be best for someone to know where you are when you don't come home.

Typical S. Platte granite, except more rotten than usual.

Two routes known, possibly more, but likely not worth it. Some of the rock is of good quality, the rest is garbage.

We installed a new 2-bolt rap anchor on the north face on the side of the highest shoulder on 5.9.09. A twin 60m rope rappel will get you down safely.

Getting There

From CO-67, head west on CR 51/511 (FR 360) as it turns to FR 206. Pick a spot to stop more or less SE or S, depending on where you park, and hike north and west to the rock. You will need either an ATV, dirt bike motorcyle, or a high clearance 4x4 with low range. These roads are not well maintained.

The routes are (by compass bearings) at 30N for the 5.8 and 60N for the 5.10.

3 Total Climbs

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Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
On 5.9.09, we installed a 2-bolt anchor on the extreme east face for rappelling safely. A double rope rappel with 60m ropes gets you down safely. May 12, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I remember looking at that crack. It's overhanging as I recall. I was thinking it was on the south side. So maybe we'll meet in the middle and say it's on the southeast side! Jun 5, 2008
slim    
Jeremy,

The '98 (blue/green) Hubbel guide shows 2 routes, 1 being a 5.8 chimney on the west side and the other being a 10c hand/fist crack on the east side. Jun 5, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I climbed this thing in college. I remember shitty rock and a 5.9 chimney. We approached via the Turkey Rock road and then walked down the road before the Big Rock rd. to the river. Jun 2, 2008

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