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Kokopelli Spire

New Mexico > New Mexico Navajolands
Warning Access Issue: Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. DetailsDrop down

Description

A small, hunched spire (looks a bit like it's going to fall over) near downtown Farmington.

This spire is not in the Navajo Nation, but is on private property.

Getting There

On highway 371, drive from downtown across the bridge over the San Juan River. Immediately on the west side of the river park. An old dirt road leads from the bridge south, along the side of the river. About a mile down, you'll find Kokopelli.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c C0-1
 1
The Big Flute
Trad, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Big Flute
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c C0-1 Trad, Aid

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

another shot of the spire
[Hide Photo] another shot of the spire
the spire, we saw a few bolts from the ground, all without hangers though, whoever got the FA on this has balls, the rock quality is horrible, and the rap anchor at the top looked super sketchy
[Hide Photo] the spire, we saw a few bolts from the ground, all without hangers though, whoever got the FA on this has balls, the rock quality is horrible, and the rap anchor at the top looked super sketchy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pat Goodman
Fayetteville, WV
[Hide Comment] Um...this thing is on private property. All the back roads have been gated and if you think you can get through Bolacks Ranch, you better wear a kevlar vest. Rad climb though! Dec 1, 2008
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] I'm stoked you guys actually did this. A striking summit that has lured local mountaineers for over 40 years. Crappy 1/4" Star dryvins on north side are David Nordstrom (c) 1973. Crappy 3/8" Phillips Red Head on south side is mine (c) 1981. We never got any farther than that. Blew it off & went to climb a new route on Barber Peak the same day.

Yes, Kokopelli Spire is on private land. On the first attempt Tom Bolack himself appeared to run us off. Second time we rapped down from the rim. This approach can be recommended with the following caveats:

1. Once over the edge, you're still on private land
2. Bring your trash ropes - they will get abraded on the jumar out
3. You still have to climb Kokopelli Spire which is a vertical stack of s**t.

Number 3 is just full disclosure: All the more reason to be impressed. It sounds like the climb went just the way we thought it would.... Dec 21, 2011