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Routes in Campanile Esloveno

Buch-Goin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excuse Me Señora, Give Me la Hora T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Imagínate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Take Two (4) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Description

Referred to as a "mini Trango Tower" by an imaginative Brazilian crew in 2004, the Campanille Esloveno is a beautiful and imposing tower of clean, golden granite perched on the south rim of Frey's southern-most cirque. The summit is a slender fin of rock that will fit 2/3 people tops, and offers stunning 360 views of the Tronador Volcano, the glaciated lakes of greater Bariloche, and the arc of the Patagonian Andes bending south. A position and a view you won't soon forget.

Rock quality is at the Holy Shit level. The classic position and the dynamite quality of the routes make the Campanille a popular destination - an early start is the ticket.

The Campanille is home to some of the finer climbs in the area, including the classics Buch-Goin and Imagínate.

Getting There

From Laguna Tomcek, pass up and through the col separating the two cirques; follow a trail trending S-SW from the bench as it ascends through vegetation into the scree and slowly winds its way toward and then below the obvious Cohete Lunar formation.

Switchback right, passing some 3rd/4th class, and keep your eyes on the "mini-Trango" looking spire high above you and south of the Torre Principal. It will loom over you as you pass through amazing boulder fields (huge potential for problems) and finally up the final scree slopes to the base. 1.5-3 hrs, start early to beat the crowds.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Campanile Esloveno

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Buch-Goin
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Imagínate
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Excuse Me Señora, Give Me la Hora
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buch-Goin
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Imagínate
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Excuse Me Señora, Give Me l…
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Campanile Esloveno »

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Photos

David Appelhans
Medford, MA
David Appelhans   Medford, MA
IMO this is the best spire in Frey. We did Fonrouge-Bertoncelj on Christmas day. Standing atop the tiny summit of this tower with not a soul around was a great Christmas present. Sep 14, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Agreed that this is the best formation in Frey that we climbed. Awesome rock quality and very cool features, especially on Imaginate. The hike from the refugio is kinda long (2-3 hours for most) but nowhere near as bad as it looks since the uphill sections are at different parts. The path crosses so much water that you can keep refilling every 20 minutes as you hike vs carrying all of that extra water weight. We hiked there and back on consecutive days and it wasn't so bad. Also, there are nice bivy spots in the plateau below the wall to be closer to the action and avoid the refugio crowds. Jan 5, 2015

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